Friday, July 25, 2014
Inquirer Daily News
The Farmers' Cabinet
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1113 Walnut St.
Philadelphia , PA 19107
Neighborhood: Center City
Parking: On street.
Handicap access: Two steps
Related reviews: The Farmers' Cabinet
Cuisine type: American; European
Meals Served: Dinner - Mon. thru Sun. Late Night - Mon. thru Sun.
Style: This moody craft drinker’s paradise from the former owners of Fork & Barrel serves up obscure artisan Euro beers on draft and fantastic throwback cocktails to a raucous beer hall with wood community tables and a live ragtime band. It’s one of the area’s most unique experiences, but the wildly ambitious game-centric menu suffers from a serious lack of execution and focus that makes it feel overpriced, too wide-ranging, and in need of better oversight.
Specialties: House-cured meats; cheeses; pickles; pea tendril salad; cast-iron herbed tart; salt potatoes; cheese fondue; crispy sweetbreads and tuna crudo; buffalo short rib; skate with lentils special; whoopie pie.
Alcohol: The best part. This is a major beer and cocktail destination in one, with 22 taps of rare Euro brews (plus four taps of house-brewed nano-beers to come), 120 exotic bottles, and exquisitely crafted cocktails from mix-master Phoebe Esmon. For beer, don’t miss drafts of Norway’s Haandbryggeriet, Berliner-Weisse from Bayerischer Bahnhof, or Harviestoun’s Bitter & Twisted. For cocktails, try a refreshing Rum Smash, a tart Whiskey Sour, or the vermouth-darkened Martinez.
Weekend noise: Bring the earplugs. This boisterous beer hall, already mid-90 decibels, bangs at a steady 98 when the tuba, banjo, and stride piano kick in.
Hours: Daily, 3 p.m.-2 a.m. Kitchen closes at 1 a.m.
Prices: $$