Manayunkers shouldn't be happy - they should be thrilled that chef Tim Spinner and partner Brian Sirhal brought a taqueria sibling of their Feliz family (La Calaca in Fairmount; Cantina in Fort Washington) to Main Street. The colorful, lively space is more casual in spirit than the others, but talented chef Lucio Palazzo brings the same no-shortcut passion and authentic sensibility to updated Mexican street food, from a singular barbacoa to excellent vegetarian options and adventure tacos (grasshopper, chicken skin) that should have a citywide draw.
Nachos (with brisket picadillo); hot dog "perro caliente"; chips and salsa; shrimp cocktail; tortilla soup; jicama salad; tacos (fish, carnitas, chicken tinga, brisket al suadero, cauliflower, crispy chicken skin, chapulines); enchiladas Suizas; carne asada; lamb barbacoa; esquites; margarita cheesecake.
Less focused on premium tequilas than the other Feliz restaurants, but still with several excellent fresh-juice takes on margaritas, including the Santana (with Espolon reposado, and best straight-up) and a fun white whiskey "Moonshine" variation. There's a small but quality selection of craft beers - think IPA or pils to quench the spice, or a Michelada of Dos Equis with Bloody Mary mix. El Tesoro, Herradura, and Don Julio headline the solid tequilas, but the quality mezcal selection (Vago, Illegal, Del Maguey) is especially worth exploring.
A margarita-pumped 93 decibels can make it hard to hear the server. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Dinner Monday through Thursday, 4-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, to 11 p.m.; Sunday, to 9 p.m. Brunch Saturday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.