The owners of Memphis Taproom and Resurrection Ale House have brought their expected array of destination-worthy beers to a rambling bi-level bar in Washington Square West. The addition of (ex-Catahoula’s) chef Paul Martin, though, gives this smartly affordable menu the kind of identity, rooted in Southern flavors plus numerous vegan options, needed for this gastropub to surmount the address’ recent unlucky streak.
Fried green tomatoes; popcorn; smoky French onion dip; pretzel bites; duck gumbo; kale salad; shrimp po’boy sandwich; pork belly with maque choux; vegan chorizo tostadas; eggplant jawn; lemon icebox pie; peach crostata; whoopie pie.
Serious craft beer dominates the ever-changing 18 taps (plus two beer engines) with greats from Belgium (Brasserie de la Senne Brussels Calling; BFM Abbaye de Saint Bon Chien) and the U.S. (Brewer’s Art/Strangelove Porch.) The bottle list is small but special, including J.W. Lees Harvest Ale, Russian River, De Dolle, Cantillon Rosé de Gambrinus. There are a handful of inexpensive but solid wines by the glass.
Go to the rear second-floor dining room for a slight chance at conversation in the low-90 decibel range. The noisy main bar hits high 90s. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Entire menu served daily 11:30 a.m.-midnight. Bar closes at 2 a.m.