Wednesday, August 27, 2014
Inquirer Daily News
Stateside
Address:
1536 E. Passyunk Ave.
Philadelphia , PA 19148
215-551-2500
Neighborhood: South Philadelphia
Related reviews: Stateside
Cuisine type: American; Pub; Small Plates or Tapas
Meals Served: Dinner - Mon. thru Sun. Late Night - Thu., Fri., Sat., Sun.
Style: A whiskey bar meets Mason jar cuisine at this ambitious East Passyunk tavern, where fresh charcuterie, potted pickles, and affordable small plates with seasonal American ingredients pair with tasty cocktails (dashed with house-made vermouth) for one of the year's most interesting projects. The bar-forward little space gazes out onto the singing fountain and should blossom nicely as warm weather expands the seating. As talented ex-Barbuzzo chef de cuisine George Sabatino continues to find his voice, this rising neighborhood corner has a chance to step up to the next level by year's end.
Specialties: Rabbit rillettes; pork liver terrine; pickled fennel and squash; oysters; steak tartare; house-smoked trout salad; house-made goat cheese; duck sausage; marrow and truffle sausage; beer-braised beef cheeks; steamed Manila clams; tri-tip steak; Harbison cheese; maple panna cotta; smoked chocolate tart.
Alcohol: A serious all-around bar program, with 60-plus American whiskeys, twists on classic cocktails with house mixers, a solid craft-beer selection (though perhaps not the neighborhood's most cutting-edge) plus a small but relatively well-chosen American wine list featuring both quality and value (almost entirely under $10 a glass and $50 a bottle). Favorites: Lost Abbey Avant Garde (beer); Pappy Van Winkle 12 (bourbon); Martinez (classic cocktail). If only the whiskey prices were marked up a little less.
Weekend noise: A boisterous 95-decibel din when busy is a big downside. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Dinner Monday through Thursday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 1 a.m.; Sunday, until 10 p.m.
Prices: $$