After six years serving the gentrifying blocks near the former Graduate Hospital, this trendsetting corner gastropub has continued to evolve and mature, with a handsome building makeover last year and, more important, a young new talent in the kitchen, Eli Collins, who's added some consistent "gastro" polish to the seasonal New American menu. A rare neighborhood bar that's managed to serve many audiences and continuously improve.
Whiskey & sage bread; chicken liver mousse; raw oysters; smoked chicken wings; chorizo-stuffed squid; foie gras torchon; venison tartare with sunchokes; cod with ramp jus; rabbit meatballs; P&K cheeseburgers; chicken noodle soup; spaghetti alla carbonara; rye orecchiette; fluke with rutabaga and lentils; panna cotta; babas in Dark 'n' Stormy syrup. Brunch: French toast; grits and eggs with harissa hollandaise; crispy-soft egg with trout; sausage & biscuit.
A well-rounded program that aims for accessible quality over quantity, with cocktails and beer the strongest suits. The half-dozen cocktails offer well-crafted but simple twists on classics (mule, a julep, and the house favorite Dark 'n' Stormy), while the beer list has embraced a stronger craft focus. Among the 26 choices, look for Jolly Pumpkin and Cuvee des Jacobins plus local stars Troegs and Free Will. The 18-label Euro wine list offers affordable, interesting producers from Loire, Slovenia, and Cahors malbec.
The P&K reaffirms its bar status with an ear-numbing 93 decibel din. (Ideal is 75 decibels.)
Dinner nightly, 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Brunch Saturday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Sunday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Bar open nightly until 2 a.m.