Grab a seat at a communal table or counter, because Italian maestro Marc Vetri and company (chefs Jeff Michaud and Brad Spence and pizza master Manny Perez) have delivered an authentically inspired pizzeria that sets the bar, from consistently excellent toppings and a complex crust with more chew than softer, traditional Neapolitan doughs, to a concise but exciting drink list, and an all-around lively, casual vibe. But be forewarned: The tiny 30-seat space with no reservations is considerably less enjoyable during peak hours.
Rotolo; daily pizza al taglio (squash with sage; meatball; gorgonzola with speck); wood-oven salad; pizzas (marinara; crudo; tonno; quattro formaggi; melanzana; oyster mushroom special); cookie jar; Nutella pizza; soft-serve (cappuccino-fior di latte swirl).
Nearly 30 craft beers split between bottles and cans are the obvious choice (Baladin, Dupont, Del Borgo, Stillwater, Evil Twin) but the two kegged wines on tap from the Gotham Project were outstanding (loved the pizza-perfect Nero d'Avola). The premixed and bottled cocktails are also notable.
A boisterous 94 decibels reflects the white-tiled walls and a deliberate pizzeria buzz. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)