Trend-collector Stephen Starr has gone casual with his bustling new pizza parlor in Headhouse Square, but the wood-fired ovens here have also raised Philly's lagging pizza scene to a new level with delicate Neoapolitan-style pies built on great ingredients and arguably the city's best puff-and-crunch dough. The menu's straightforward focus, plus a few well-crafted starters, gelatos, and affordable wines to round out a meal, make this hot spot a refreshingly family-friendly destination.
A small 15-label selection of affordable Italian table wines, entirely under $45 a bottle and $10 a glass, could still use some refinement. The Bibbiano "Casalone" super-Tuscan is a favorite, as is the Sicilian white fiano from MandraRossa and Zonin prosecco. The stemless glasses are appropriately unpretentious, but these tumblers are too clunky to be cool. The tiny beer selection has some decent Italian and craft choices, but could also be expanded.
Entire menu served Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, until 11; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.