The primal art of wood-fire cooking meets sophisticated modern interpretations at this inspired new debut from three young talents - the chef brothers Petruce (Jonathan and Justin) and beverage savant Tim Kweeder. This bi-level Washington Square West destination serves seasonal plates meant for sharing, with a wide-palate of influences (from lasagna to kimchi) that always frame fine ingredients. The bar is a destination in its own right, featuring exceptional cocktails and spirits, plus a fascinating list of unusual small-producer wines.
Roasted carrots with bagna càuda; sweet potato with tomatillo; chicken livers with rhubarb; beef tartare with mushroom aioli; rabbit terrine; lamb ribs; lasagna; quail; black bass with strawberries; arctic char; chicken and grits; 20- ounce dry-aged sirloin; soft-serve ice cream; rhubarb mousse; roasted pineapple with chocolate mousse.
The wine list is modest in size, but exceptional in its focus on small-producer wines made with "low intervention" techniques that result in earthier, lower-alcohol, food-friendly wines (at relatively fair mark-ups). Highlights include a white Alsatian blend from Binner (aromatic, faintly effervescent), a dry red version of usually sweet aleatico (Alea Viva), multiple Loire choices, and good crisp fino sherry by the glass. There are also excellent ciders (Cyril Zangs), a handful of craft beers (Nebraska IPA), and George Costa's elaborate but expert cocktails are very worthwhile: try the Laphroaig-smoked "Man Man-hattan."
A noisy 92 decibels in the front, slightly quieter in the rear dining room. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until midnight; Sunday, until 10 p.m. Bar open until 1 a.m.