The Cameron Mitchell restaurant group invested $5 million-plus into a classic Philly space for the last thing Center City needed - another wildly overpriced steak chain (this one with seafood) that expects crowds to be dazzled by the golden onyx glitz of its soaring dining room. The crowds are coming, but awkwardly amateur service and stunningly mediocre food for $40-plus an entrée leaves this newcomer few redeeming virtues.
Crab cake appetizer; Point Judith calamari with sweet chili sauce; tuna with marble potatoes and truffles; Kansas City strip; 10-layer carrot cake; chocolate peanut butter pie.
The 100-plus bottle wine list (with 50 by the glass) is a typical chain offering, a New World-centric collection heavy on familiar chards and cabs, with the usual high markups (though select bottles, like the Cakebread chardonnay for $96, are cheaper than some competitors). Commercial-grade glass selections are especially marked up, but stick with less typical wines (Trimbach Riesling, Sokol Blosser Evolution, Rioja Vega Crianza, Terrazas Malbec) for best quality for the buck. Cocktails lean on the fruity side.
The main room roars at a boisterous 94 decibels, but the side rooms are a more reasonable mid-80s. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)