The new "no menu" policy requires an open mind. But if you're prepared for a two-hour, 16-course tasting of surprising little bites, chef Robert Halpern's kitchen crew delivers elaborately rendered dishes of quality ingredients reimagined with wit, cutting-edge technique, and seasonality. The molecular gastronomy approach isn't for everyone, and Marigold isn't exactly flawless. But Halpern's tall culinary ambitions have matured enough since the first review for his BYO to become a genuine destination and earn its third bell.
October: gazpacho dippin' dots; fingerling potato skins with cheddar foam; liquid corn ravioli with cumin salt; hamachi with mushroom dashi and mushroom "forest"; crab and pickled jalapeño mac 'n' cheese; quinoa cake; fruit consommé; chocolate-foie gras push pop.
December: autumn dippin' dots; liquid cheddar cracker; ham bubbles; liquid squash ravioli with banana salt; beef tartare; diver scallop with mushrooms and foie gras soup; grouper with lamb tagine; persimmon cake and chocolate foam; chestnut macaroon.
BYO: With so many little bites ranging from raw seafood to earthy mushrooms and light meats, stick with flexible wines (or beers) such as Champagne, whites from the Loire, or pinot noir.
Can be a noisy 92 decibels in the main dining room, but the side room is a considerably quieter 84 decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)