Laurel
After high-profile stints at Le Bec-Fin and Rittenhouse Tavern followed by a celebrity-sealing win on Top Chef, Nicholas Elmi did the unexpected and dove into a tiny 20-seat BYOB where he can touch every preciously-crafted modern French plate of cocoa-laced foie gras, meltaway ricotta gnocchi and albacore crudo topped with horseradish snow. Laurel proves BYOs can be comfortable - and coveted, too. As of May, the restaurant will serve $85 seven-course tasting menus only. But Elmi's devoted fans, already booking 90 days in advance, prove there's a demand for such a soignee and personal fine dining boutique in South Philly, too. Reviewed Feb. 9, 2014.
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Since winning Top Chef and opening this intimate jewel box on East Passyunk, Le Bec-Fin vet Nicholas Elmi has evolved quickly and impressively in his quest to redefine what modern French gastronomy can be.
Among the changes since opening to a 3-bell rave, the move from à la carte to inventive $85 tasting menus, plus the addition of a liquor license (though it's still BYO-friendly), have only increased Laurel's ability to deliver a memorable and personal experience. Pairings from the wine list are smart and unique.
The service is tuned in. And Elmi's gorgeous cuisine - at once modern and rooted in French lineage (like a dreamy Dover sole stuffed with truffles) - continues to mature with finesse and imagination.
The rating may be reassessed once its recently opened cocktail bar (ITV) next door gets rolling. But there's already a good reason Laurel is one of the toughest reservations in town.