Indian is out, and Spanish is in as chef Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran replace Bindi with a moody tapas bar inspired by a trip through the Spanish countryside. Turney’s big and loosely authentic menu has only just begun to hone a distinctive voice (vis-à-vis the Garces juggernaut) but already features some stunning signatures and top-notch ingredients. Add one of the country’s most ambitious sherry lists and impressively polished service, and Jamonera should become a big small-plate hit for 13th Street’s dynamic duo. Tapas, $7-$13 (about three per person.)
Papa frita; shishito peppers à la plancha; pan con tomate; roasted olives; jamon Iberico de Bellota; bacon-wrapped Valdeon-stuffed dates; mussels escabeche; albondigas; wedding of anchoas; tuna conserva; calamares en su tinta; mushroom tosta; breakfast bite; avocado (with salt cod carpaccio); judias verdes; eggplant fries; crispy calasparra rice; clams and sepia; skirt steak; scallops with pork belly; huevos sucios de Lucio; buñuelos; citrus crema; Jamonera sundae; olive oil ice cream.
A spectacular sherry list is the focus, with 46 and counting, ranging from bone-dry finos to amber amontillados and syrupy sweet Pedro Ximénez — all of which pair well with food. There is also a notable list of fairly priced Spanish wines from small producers with rarely seen grapes (Godello, Xarel-lo, Alicante Bouchet, Bobal) to complement the more familiar tempranillos, verdejos, and sparkling rose cava. A small but quality selection of craft beer and cider adds more options, plus creative cocktails with sherry and excellent Spanish vermouth.
Hovering in the mid-80s, the room can become quite noisy, but decent table spacing makes conversation possible. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Sunday through Thursday, 5-11:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until midnight.