Follow the hoot of panpipes and the aroma of spit-roasting birds to this simple but tidy family-run BYOB along Upper Darby's ethnic row, home to one of the area's few genuine Peruvian restaurants. First-time chef and restaurateur Beatrice Loayza has a light touch on aji pepper spice, but a solid home cook's grasp of the genuine flavors that make traditional dishes like ceviche, pollo a la brasa, and flaky empanadas worthy of a visit.
Empanadas; yucca a la Huancaina; Inka Wall salad; ceviche (with two hours' preorder notice); aji de gallina; pollo a la brasa; seco de carne. Weekend specials: carapulcra; chicken-giblet soup; tallarin verde with skirt steak; tres leches cake.
BYOB. A crisp beer is the most obvious choice, especially a Peruvian label like Cusqueña. But bring a good bottle of Pisco brandy (like BarSol), some sour mix, and a shaker, and then the evening gets more interesting. (A restaurant-made mixer is in the works.)
A mellow 78 decibels, though mostly because crowds have been sparse. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Entire menu (except weekend specials) served Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Monday.