High Street on Market, the ambitious all-day sit-down the owners of Fork recently opened in the old fork:etc, has eased into service in its introductory months, serving (and vigorously Vine-ing) breakfast and lunch — until this week, when dinner service officially launched at 306 Market.
Chef Eli Kulp and his team have been earning some well-placed daps for their a.m. eats and midday sandwiches, but nighttime posed a new set of challenges. “fork:etc was a daily go-to for a lot of people, so that’s why breakfast and lunch had to stay approachable,” says Kulp, who started at Fork a little over a year ago. Dinner, meanwhile, provided the opportunity for the kitchen to tackle food from an edgier angle distinct from the slightly more buttoned-up personality at the neighboring Fork.
“Craftsmanship is a major focal point for us,” Kulp says of the thought process behind High Street. That applies both to surroundings both physical (ceramic plates formed and fired by a former Fork employee at the nearby Clay Studio) and edible.
The menu’s pastas, crafted and extruded on the premises, are a good place to look for examples of High Street’s detail-oriented and appealingly off-kilter approach. Buckwheat orecchiette, tossed with crispy okra, crawfish and their rich braising liquid. Beet-based corzetti with marinated sardines. Sous chef Jon Nodler’s toasted kombu bucatini, covered in brilliant neon shavings of lobster bottarga the kitchen processes in-house.