Thursday, July 24, 2014
Inquirer Daily News
Hickory Lane
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Address:
2025 Fairmount Ave.
Philadelphia , PA 19130
215-769-2420
Neighborhood: Art Museum - Fairmount
Parking: On street, nearby lot.
Cuisine type: American
Meals Served: Brunch - Sat., Sun. Lunch - Mon., Tue., Wed., Thu., Fri. Dinner - Mon. thru Sun.
Style: Former Rouge chef Matt Zagorski has brought his refined American fare north to this handsomely spare corner space across from Eastern State Penitentiary. The prices may be a shade high to lure a larger neighborhood crowd, and the plates aren’t especially innovative. But high-quality ingredients and solid cooking make this open-kitchen bistro a worthy spot for those seeking some classics — a good steak, burger, or top-line piece of fish — properly done with a light, modern touch.
Specialties: Cornmeal-fried oysters; tuna tartare; scallop appetizer; chef’s salad; steamed mussels with fennel; Hickory burger; NY strip steak-frites; roasted chicken with truffled mashed potatoes; king salmon with polenta; tuna with bacon-braised cabbage and beets; pork tenderloin; bread pudding. Dinner entrées, $12-$29.
Alcohol: BYOB, but full liquor license expected by midsummer, after which a “reasonable” corkage fee will be in place.
Weekend noise: Sound generally hovers in the talkable low 80s, though one especially raucous table can push the noise into the less comfortable high 80s. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Lunch Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner nightly, 4:30-10 p.m. Brunch Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m
Prices: $$