Friday, September 19, 2014
Inquirer Daily News
Gemelli on Main
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4161 Main St.
Philadelphia , PA 19127
Neighborhood: Manayunk
Parking: Lot across the street; valet on weekends ($10)
Cuisine type: European; French; Italian
Meals Served: Brunch - Sat., Sun. Dinner - Mon. thru Sun.
Style: Talented but nomadic chef Clark Gilbert has moved yet again, taking his cozy Narberth BYO to a sleeker, multilevel Manayunk space with a liquor license. Gilbert has stepped the cooking up a half-notch, too, with polished bistro dishes (now leaning more French than Italian) that add needed depth to Main Street’s scene. The upscale prices, though already starting to come down, may need to dip lower before this becomes the go-to neighborhood spot the chef aspires to.
Specialties: Chilled pea soup with peekytoe crab; rabbit rillettes; vitello tonnato; beef (or venison) tartare with curried cockle vinaigrette; lamb bolognese; pork cheeks and polenta; scallops; salmon with eggplant puree; veal tenderloin; lobster cannelloni with pork belly; cheesecake; flourless chocolate torte.
Alcohol: A 70-label list offers a good selection of food-friendly Eurocentric wines, with best values by the bottle, most under $50. Some intriguing choices include, for white, a Sicilian inzolia/grillo from Masseria del Feudo ($40) and a pinot bianco from Nals Margreid in Alto Adige ($45); for red, a Chilean carmenere from Terranoble Reserva ($40), La Friande Cotes du Rhône ($13/$39), and a pinot noir from Brunet ($12/$36). There is a small but worthy craft beer list (Sixpoint, Monk’s Flemish Sour Ale, Cigar City, Ballast Point), plus a nice stock of spirits and after-dinner amari.
Weekend noise: A reasonable 82 decibels, with good table spacing, but the room was rarely busy. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Dinner Sunday and Monday, 5-9 p.m.; Tuesday through Thursday, until 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m. Brunch (beginning in November) Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Reservations: Recommended
Prices: $$$