306 Market St.
Philadelphia , PA 19106
Neighborhood: Old City
Cuisine type: American
Meals Served: Brunch - Sat., Sun. Lunch - Mon., Tue., Wed., Thu., Fri. Dinner - Mon. thru Sun.
Style: Proprietor Ellen Yin has done the improbable: recovered from losing a star chef by recruiting New York talent Eli Kulp, whose spectacular whole-animal feasts and Italian- inflected fare has actually made Fork even better. Add a gorgeous new mural (painted by longtime waiter Anthony DeMelas), ever-stellar service, and a smart drink program, and Fork remains one of Philly's best all-purpose grown-up restaurants - but one now with potential to someday reach even greater heights.
Specialties: Trout caviar; chicken nuggets; scallop crudo with parsley kimchi; kale salad; mozzarella with cured melon; the roots salad; crab-apple soup; smoked pumpkin tortelloni; "burnt-grain" pappardelle with wild boar ragu; pistachio agnolotti with rabbit; Wagyu short- rib feast; duck feast; branzino en croute; skate; lobster; porchetta sandwich (lunch); lemon semifreddo with thyme meringue; chocolate cake; cheese plate.
Weekend noise: Still boisterous at 85 decibels, but tame enough to maintain a conversation. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)