Wednesday, August 20, 2014
Inquirer Daily News
Fork
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Address:
306-308 Market St.
Philadelphia , PA 19106
215-625-9425
Neighborhood: Old City
Parking: Validated parking $6.50 in the Bourse Parking Garage (400 Ranstead St.)
Handicap access: Wheelchair acccessible.
Cuisine type: American
Meals Served: Brunch - Sat., Sun. Lunch - Mon., Tue., Wed., Thu., Fri. Dinner - Mon. thru Sun.
Style: Proprietor Ellen Yin has done the improbable: recovered from losing a star chef by recruiting New York talent Eli Kulp, whose spectacular whole-animal feasts and Italian- inflected fare has actually made Fork even better. Add a gorgeous new mural (painted by longtime waiter Anthony DeMelas), ever-stellar service, and a smart drink program, and Fork remains one of Philly's best all-purpose grown-up restaurants - but one now with potential to someday reach even greater heights.
Specialties: Trout caviar; chicken nuggets; scallop crudo with parsley kimchi; kale salad; mozzarella with cured melon; the roots salad; crab-apple soup; smoked pumpkin tortelloni; "burnt-grain" pappardelle with wild boar ragu; pistachio agnolotti with rabbit; Wagyu short- rib feast; duck feast; branzino en croute; skate; lobster; porchetta sandwich (lunch); lemon semifreddo with thyme meringue; chocolate cake; cheese plate.
Alcohol: Fork manages to fit more great bottles on a page than most restaurants can achieve in a book - and with a focus on true value. The Eurocentric list features small producers from sometimes-obscure regions, but food-friendly quality, whether a Font Mars Picpoul de Pinet or Giraudon Bourgogne-Chitry by the glass, a surprising Pinnacle Ridge rose sparkler from Kutztown, or a fantastic bottle of Sicilian Leone white. Numerous choices at $50 or less, with a reserve list worth the prices. There's a small but decent beer selection, and a revamped cocktail list energized by some unusual naturalist mixers (celery water, peach bitters).
Weekend noise: Still boisterous at 85 decibels, but tame enough to maintain a conversation. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Lunch Wednesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Friday, tiil 10:30 p.m.; Saturday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Reservations: Recommended
Prices: $$$