Co-owner Ellen Yin’s Old City pioneer is the rare restaurant that’s improved steadily over two decades, taking its final step up to four bells under the watch of partner and culinary director Eli Kulp. The emergence of rising-star chef John Patterson has maintained that trajectory since Kulp was tragically paralyzed in the 2015 Amtrak crash, and Fork has honed a seamless contemporary dining experience with elegant and witty food that evokes memories, seasons, spontaneity, and sense of place. The ever-changing $55 Wednesday-night menus are a deal.
Trout caviar; chicken nuggets; scallop crudo with parsley kimchi; kale salad; mozzarella with cured melon; the roots salad; crab-apple soup; smoked pumpkin tortelloni; "burnt-grain" pappardelle with wild boar ragu; pistachio agnolotti with rabbit; Wagyu short- rib feast; duck feast; branzino en croute; skate; lobster; porchetta sandwich (lunch); lemon semifreddo with thyme meringue; chocolate cake; cheese plate.
Still boisterous at 85 decibels, but tame enough to maintain a conversation. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)