Fitler Dining Room
2201 Spruce St.
Philadelphia , PA 19103
Street parking only. Handicap access:
Cuisine type: New American
There's magic in this tiny corner room at 22d and Spruce Streets, and the crew from Pub & Kitchen has found it with an elegant new bistro that is the third consecutive tenant to earn three bells, following Melograno and Meme. Chef Rob Marzinsky makes a notable Philadelphia debut with New American fare that channels seasonality through compellingly focused ideas and refined technique. The owners should continue adding more comfort to the stylish but noisy space. But they've already created a gem that, with an ambitious wine list, is among the most complete restaurants to launch this year.
Chowder-poached oysters; raw oysters with smoked trout roe; gnocchi with snails and Chartreuse butter; artichoke soup; tuna sashimi and rillettes; house-made pasta (with eggplant ragu; with spring vegetables and smoked goat cheese cream); braised beef cheeks; chicken with porcinis; cheese board; white chocolate mousse; carrot cake.
A surprisingly robust and thoughtful cellar for such a small space features 75 mostly Old World labels with 17 good pours by the glass (Monmousseau Chinon and Brut Rosé; Guntrum riesling; a Loupiac-Gaudiet sweet), some in-the-know quality bottles (Paul Mas Picpoul de Pinet; Camino Romano tempranillo), good sherries and Rare Wine Co. Madeiras. BYOB is allowed for a $20 corkage fee, but that's waived if a bottle is also bought from the restaurant's list.
Can hit an extremely noisy 93 decibels, though simply lowering volume on the music would help. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Dinner Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m.; Sunday brunch soon. Entrees, $18-$28.