Friday, February 12, 2016
Fette Sau
1208 Frankford Ave.
Philadelphia , PA
Neighborhood: Fishtown
Parking: On street
Handicap access: Wheelchair accessible.
Cuisine type: Barbecue
Meals Served: Lunch - Sat., Sun. Dinner - Mon. thru Sun.
Style: The barbecue gods have finally smiled on Philly with a serious pit worth celebrating. This Fishtown branch of Joe Carroll's Brooklyn'cue shrine was imported by partner Stephen Starr, who has built a vast hipster shack beside Frankford Hall where sublimely smoked coffee-rubbed meats are sliced by the pound with an epic American whiskey collection to wash it down. Paired with a great blues soundtrack and the perfect casual vibe, with communal seating for groups, this is serious barbecue as a complete experience, and a new standard-bearer in a genre that's long been a city weak point. Meats by the pound, $17-$23.
Specialties: All the meats are excellent, but the brisket, short rib, pork belly, Nicolosi sausage and chicken are exceptional. Sides: broccoli salad; potato salad; mushrooms. Desserts: key lime pie; peanut butter cookie.
Alcohol: A wall of 100-plus North American whiskeys anchors the list, with standards and rarities (E.H. Taylor-Tornado; Virginia's Bowman Brothers; George T. Stagg; a complete set of Pappy Van Winkles; several High Wests; Thomas Handy Sazerac rye). There is also a small but excellent selection of craft beers on draft, and a line-up of signature cocktails that are especially worthwhile, from the smoky Lehigh Lemonade (with XXX Shine) to the apple-brandied rye of Fishtown Ryatt.
Weekend noise: A lively but reasonable 85 decibels, although the room was rarely full when measured. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday, 5-midnight; Saturday, noon-midnight; Sunday, noon-11 p.m.
Prices: $$