Monday, October 20, 2014
Inquirer Daily News
Fat Ham
Address:
3131 Walnut St.
Philadelphia , PA 19104
215-735-1914
Neighborhood: West Philadelphia
Parking: Street parking only.
Handicap access: Wheelchair accessible.
Cuisine type: Southern
Meals Served: Lunch Dinner
Style: Eating off a tree stump has never been so rewarding as a meal at Kevin Sbraga’s second restaurant, a small but lively, wood-clad space where the Deep South inspirations masterfully blend rustic flavors and refinement into dynamic sharing plates that are refreshingly affordable. Service can vary. But the impressive wall of American whiskey should adequately pre-numb palates for the nonnegotiable sting of a “hot chicken” that lives up to its name.
Specialties: House ricotta with black-eyed peas; Southern hummus; mustard green salad; charcuterie; oyster sliders; shrimp and grits; blackened catfish; collards and pork shank; Sea Island peas, oxtails and Carolina Gold rice; macaroni-’n’-cheese with BBQ potato chip crust; charred cabbage with tomato pie; hot chicken; pulled pork; banana pudding; red velvet cake.
Alcohol: A wall of American whiskey — 130 of them — is ample reason to visit the bar, with favorites from Angel’s Envy rye to Willett, Koval (try the Four Grain), and High West (Son of Bourye). There’s a small but solid craft beer list (Porkslap pale ale is the thematically correct choice). But the well-crafted Southern-inspired cocktails, like the jam-sweetened julep and a Low Country rum and Madeira punch on draft, are really the perfect start.
Weekend noise: A very noisy 93 decibels can make it hard to hear a quiet server. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m. Closed Sunday.
Prices: $