Fairmount’s healthy-minded diners seemed to have embraced this warm yet contemporary restaurant bar, where the menu stresses organic and low-fat ingredients with some vegan options and very affordable prices. But while the concept is relatively guilt-free, from the salvaged materials for the decor to the organic liquor cocktails, the kitchen consistently fumbles the basics of good cooking (namely appetizing flavors and careful preparation), limiting Fare’s appeal to a niche neighborhood crowd rather than a wider audience.
Tuna tartare; braised leeks; cauliflower with chickpeas; grapefruit, blue cheese, and avocado salad; marinated chicken thighs; seared bluefish; ancho-marinated flank steak; tuna melt (lunch); bison burger; mushroom and carrot cakes.
A selection of 30 or so bargain wines by the glass and bottle, with good diversity (from New Zealand to Portugal to California) and an emphasis on inexpensive (virtually all under $9 a glass), with about a quarter of them organic. Most are reasonably drinkable (even the super-cheap Yellow+Blue Tetra Pak vino from Argentina), but as one spoiled bottle proved, this may be a larger by-the-glass selection than this bar can manage. There are about a dozen largely craft beers, as well as cocktails that favor spalike juice-bar ingredients — from cucumber water to beet juice.
The padding along the ceiling is still relatively ineffective, with busy nights edging into a noisy 93-94 decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)