The flavors of Louisiana have given zesty new life (yet again) to the pocket-size Queen Village bar once known as La Creole, where the upscale pretense of the short-lived Sauté has been replaced by a friendly neighborhood destination for affordable fare with Cajun attitude. Lafayette, La., native Paul Martin's deep, dark gumbo alone is worth the visit, among other bites, even if much of the inconsistent menu still needs some fine-tuning.
Roasted crab-stuffed oysters; oysters on the half-shell; shrimp rémoulade; chicken-andouille gumbo; crawfish bisque; shrimp po-boy; duck jambalaya; blackened snapper; smoked Gouda grits; fried green tomatoes; Big Mama Kieran's pickled vegetables; molasses-pecan pie; pear cobbler.
A small bar with relatively well-focused options, from respectable New Orleans-style and throwback cocktails (Sazerac, Vieux Carre, Pimm's Cup), to a limited selection of craft beers (Sixpoint brown ale, several Abitas.) There is also a tiny but drinkable list of affordable wines by the glass.
A boisterous 87 decibels. Patio is best for conversationalists. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Dinner Monday through Friday, 4 p.m.-midnight; Saturday and Sunday, 3 p.m.-midnight. Brunch Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.