Owner Gordon Dinerman has the right idea with his fun and casual revamp of a corner pizza-and-beer concept, emphasizing craft brews (many Italian), and pizzas with unconventional toppings (pasta) and shapes. Unfortunately, the kitchen’s ambitions are consistently stifled by poor execution and less-than-stellar recipes, leaving the lively central bar and sidewalk seating as the best reason to visit this latest East Passyunk hot spot.
Under the guidance of beer guru Jessica Fox, Birra has assembled a broad and surprisingly large collection of craft brews for such a small place, with 9 drafts and 40-plus bottles (and cans) ranging from West Coast IPAs to Michigan stouts and a nice starter collection of pricier Italian ales. The handful of other Euros (Dupont saison; Ayinger brau weisse) are worthwhile.
A boisterous 92 decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Menu served Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight.; Friday and Saturday, until 1 a.m.