Chef-owner Bon Siu's elegantly simple "contemporary" take on Chinese cuisine has remained a Queen Village favorite for 23 years, and for good reason. His affordable menu is targeted toward a faithful, largely non-Asian, audience, but toes a delicate line between mainstream appeal and an authentic touch that lends superbly fresh, high-quality ingredients, from plump shrimp to lamb chops, a light-handed simplicity true to his Southern Chinese roots. Consistency is key to Mustard Greens' success, but, with more Chinese competition than ever, a reluctance to subtle evolution (both on the menu and limited drink list) risks stifling its ability to cultivate a sustainable audience.
Hot and spicy panfried dumplings; stuffed eggplant with black bean sauce; wonton soup; curried beef soup; Cantonese soup; sautéed greens (mustard greens, pea leaves, green beans); eggplant with garlic sauce; lamb chops; firecracker pork; chef's duck; shrimp (barbecue-style, shiitakes); Hunan-style rainbow trout; steamed salmon with black bean sauce; crab fried rice; garlic noodles. Entrees: $8-$18 (lobster priced higher)
There is a small list of generic wines and mass-market beers, with Tsingtao the best choice for this menu. Meanwhile, Mustard Greens wastes the possibilities for growing a clientele with better use of its beer and spirits program.
The minimalist space can be noisy, but the mostly mature clientele rarely bumps above 84 decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Dinner Sunday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m.