Drink: Charles Gonnet Chignin

A long time ago, I went to work at a restaurant in Chambéry, France, and along the way discovered an entire class of refreshing alpine wines I'd never heard of before.

Chignin? Roussette?

These regional curiosities were hardly ever seen then, even in cosmopolitan Paris.

But 25 years later, on the more adventurous lists of Philadelphia's suddenly burgeoning wine scene, the mountain wines of the French Savoie have become one sign of a sommelier who encourages guests to explore.

I'd expect such a find from a Frenchwoman like Charlotte Calmels, who just happens to be pouring a 2014 Chignin Charles Gonnet at Le Chéri. But I was thrilled to find Gonnet's 2015 Chignin by the glass at Root in Fishtown, too.

Made entirely from the jacquère grape, this easy-drinking, low-alcohol white has a vibrant acidity and stony minerality framed by a noseful of citrus blossom.

But it's softer as the sipping proceeds - think melons and nuts - making it a versatile companion for wine bar nibbles, crispy potatoes, and cheese.

- Craig LaBan
Charles Gonnet Chignin 2015, $11 a glass at Root (1206 Frankford Ave.); $12 a glass (or $59 a bottle for 2014 vintage) at Le Chéri (251 S. 18th St.) Also in Pennsylvania by special order for $14.79 (code 567959).