Fruit takes the savory route

Juicy peaches, fragrant tart berries, soft and silky melon - with such wonderful summer offerings, why not abandon the Fourth of July burger tradition and give these seasonal stars a chance to really shine - in savory dishes.

While a simple fruit crisp is a sound strategy for showcasing these bright flavors, summer fruit rises to another level when paired with savory ingredients.

From classic prosciutto and melon to a modern take on tacos with pineapple salsa, fruit lends a delicate sweet contrast to salty or spicy, enhancing both, while adding color and pizzazz.

Most fruits have a balance of sweetness and acidity, a perfect counter to the salty tang of cured meats or spicy grilled fare. And as a foil, fruit can play a main or supporting role with panache.

One of my summer favorites is a variation of gazpacho, made with rhubarb and watermelon in addition to tomatoes. Tangy, fruity, crunchy, light, with a hint of sweetness and a whisper of heat, this soup is easy and fresh, with the bonus of a beautiful pink hue.

Tender fruits, such as berries, lend themselves to use as garnishes or in cold dishes, or cooked down as a glaze or marinade. Simple oven-roasted salmon is elevated to fine dining when garnished with blackberries and preserved lemon. The tang and subtle sweetness of blackberries are a surprising, yet perfectly matched combination with salmon, and the color contrast makes a lovely presentation.

Figs and stone fruits, such as peaches, apricots, and plums, can be cooked in chutneys or sliced and marinated for salads or salsas. But they are especially good browned on the grill, where they caramelize and gain a bit of sophisticated sweetness, combined with smoky essence.

Stone fruits should be halved, pitted, and tossed in lemon juice and a bit of olive oil, then grilled, cut side down, over medium-hot coals until browned. Figs can be left whole or halved, depending on size and texture. A glaze of brown sugar and lemon juice or vinegar wouldn't be wrong. Add some herbs? Of course.

There are as many combinations of grilled meat, vegetables, and fruit as there are days of summer. My favorites include: sliced Greek halloumi cheese browned crisp outside, soft and chewy inside, alongside grilled peaches and basil; spicy lamb kebobs topped with warmed figs and soft grilled peppers with a shower of fresh parsley and thyme; grilled lemon rosemary chicken served with grilled plums, sliced red onion, and feta cheese.

These grilled stone fruits are perfect to accompany sausages, and leftovers can be chopped for salsa or tossed with dried mustard for a hot and sweet dipping sauce or topping. For an easy, elegant one-dish repast, layer any of the above on dressed fresh spinach or tender kale.

Melons of all sorts, sliced thin or chunked, pair with salty cheese (feta, blue) or smoked meats (chicken, duck), working well on a cold buffet. They also fill the niche when you need a dish for a picnic or potluck.

A favorite staff meal at a restaurant where I once worked was a breakfast focaccia topped with summer fruit.

Supposedly of Sicilian origins, we made it with leftover bread dough spread with fresh ricotta, sliced peaches and grapes or berries, rosemary, and sea salt. After baking we drizzled a bit of aged balsamic vinegar and ground lots of black pepper on top. Slices of these fruity, savory flatbreads were as good with morning coffee as with early-evening cocktails. Over the years I adapted this idea in many ways, combining various crusts - pizza, basic pie dough, filo or puff pastry - with salty cheese, sweet fruit, and lemon or vinegar glaze. A simple disc of cooked pie crust schmeared with a layer of fresh goat cheese and piled with strawberries is a variation that can't be beat. Add some pepper to the crust and a sherry vinegar glaze, and you could take this fruity dish anywhere.

Makes 4 servings

2 organic lemons

1/3 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

11/2-pound salmon fillet

1 cup fresh blackberries

Lots of fresh ground black pepper

1. To prepare the preserved lemons: At least a day (or up to three days) ahead: Peel one lemon in thin strips with a vegetable peeler or paring knife. Place peel in a small jar or bowl and cover with olive oil. Slice the other lemon into 8 wedges, and remove the seeds with a knife tip or fingers. Slice each wedge into very small pieces, sprinkle with salt, and place in small bowl or jar. Squeeze the juice of peeled lemon and add this juice to the chopped salted lemons, pressing so the pieces are submerged in their juice. Cover both the lemon peel oil and the salted lemons in juice (in their separate containers) and refrigerate overnight or up to three days.

2. To prepare the salmon: Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place the salmon, skin side down, on a baking dish. Season well with fresh ground pepper. Roast salmon in hot oven 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly browned and cooked through.

3. Transfer salmon to serving plate. Pour 2 to 3 teaspoons of the salted lemon juice over the salmon. Toss the blackberries with 1 tablespoon of the lemon oil and 1 teaspoon of the salted lemon pieces. Sprinkle the lemony blackberries on top of the salmon and around the serving plate. Garnish with strips of lemon peel and additional lemon oil and serve the remaining salt-preserved lemon on the side.

Per serving: 518 calories, 38 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams sugar, 38 grams fat, 107 milligrams cholesterol, 690 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 4-6 servings

11/2 cups thinly sliced rhubarb stalks

1/4 cup sugar

6 to 7 cups cubed watermelon flesh

2 tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 unwaxed cucumber, diced into very small cubes (about 3/4 cup)

1 yellow pepper, cored, seeded, and diced into small cubes (2/3 cup)

1 small red onion, peeled, diced into very small pieces (1/2 cup)

1/2-1 jalapeno minced very finely (optional)

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tablespoons chopped mint

Juice of two limes

1. Place the rhubarb and sugar in a small nonreactive saucepan. Cover and bring to a simmer slowly over a low flame. Cook for 4 to 6 minutes until the rhubarb slices are quite soft. Cool.

2. Puree the watermelon and tomatoes in a blender in batches and pour each batch through a mesh strainer into a bowl. Add the cooled rhubarb to the strained watermelon-tomato puree. Add the remaining ingredients, except lime juice, and stir.

3. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight. Add lime juice. Stir, taste. Add more lime juice or a splash of vinegar to taste.

4. Garnish with finely minced cucumbers, peppers, mint or some combination.

Per serving (based on 6): 109 calories, 2 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 20 grams sugar, trace fat, no cholesterol, 5 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

Makes eight 3-inch tarts

Dough for basic crust:

11/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 full teaspoon fresh ground pepper

1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

2 to 4 tablespoons ice water

For the tart:

1/3 cup sherry or balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar (if using sherry vinegar)

3 cups strawberries, hulled and sliced, a few perfect ones reserved for garnish

8 ounces soft fresh goat cheese

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, minced finely

Additional fresh thyme for garnish

1. To prepare the dough, in the bowl of a food processor (or mixing bowl) place the flour, salt, sugar, and fresh pepper. Add the butter and process (or mix with your fingers) until the butter is incorporated into the flour but still a bit lumpy. Add 2 tablespoons of water and pulse (or mix) very briefly. Add only enough water so the dough will stay together if squeezed. Do not overmix. Turn dough onto a piece of waxed paper, form into a ball, and press this ball into a disk. Wrap in the waxed paper and refrigerate at least ½ hour until you are ready to use. Dough can be well wrapped and refrigerated for up to 3 days, or frozen for several months.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll dough on a floured board in a rectangular shape large enough to cut 8 three-inch circles. Using a cutter or an upended glass, cut dough into the circles and place each circle on a lined baking sheet. Prick each disk multiple times with the tines of a fork. Place pan in the middle of the oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the dough is lightly browned. Remove from oven and cool on a rack.

3. Place the vinegar and sugar in a saucepan. (Omit sugar if using balsamic vinegar.) Over medium heat bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer until reduced by half, 4 to 5 minutes. Let cool.

4. When ready to serve, mix the minced thyme into the soft goat cheese. Toss the sliced strawberries in the vinegar glaze. Spread 1 ounce of cheese on each disk. Spoon 1/8 of the berries onto the herbed goat cheese. Drizzle any remaining glaze over the tarts. Serve garnished with sprigs of fresh thyme and whole strawberries if available.

Per tart (using balsamic vinegar): 323 calories, 11 grams protein, 20 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 22 grams fat, 60 milligrams cholesterol, 328 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.