Melograno

Updated, based on a recent revisit

Roman-born Gianluca Demontis' magic touch for trattoria cooking has made this the class of the Philly's Italian BYOBs for nearly a decade.

A menu of deceptively simple classics has gradually become more daring since the move to a larger Sansom Street space.

Full review


Melograno

2012 Sansom St., Philadelphia; 215-875-8116, www.melogranorestaurant.com/.

The recent move to a larger space hasn't dimmed the magic of the city's best Italian BYOB. If anything, the long and lively rustic space has only improved the trattoria, allowing Roman-born chef-owner Gianluca Demontis the room to begin taking a few more risks, adding gutsy new dishes like snail-porcini soup and sea-flavored carbonara to an already stellar repertoire of deceptively simple but well-wrought classics.

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

Grilled scallops and artichokes; snail and porcini soup; pig trotter terrine with lentils; fried chicken livers; pappardelle tartufate; paccari paccheri all'Amatriciana; carbonara with anchovies, pistachios and truffle; bistecca alla Fiorentina; pork chop; chicken alla Senese; fig-stuffed quails; balsamic-braised short rib special; tiramisu; ciabatta bread pudding.

DRINKS

BYOB. Bring an earthy Italian red.

IF YOU GO

Dinner Tuesday through Saturday, 5:30 to 9:45 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 8:45 p.m. Closed Monday.

Wheelchair accessible.

Street parking only.

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