Monday, December 22, 2014

Kanella

Kanella’s co-owners Konstantinos Pitsillides (front) and his wife, Caroline, with the restaurant’s sous chef, Omer Taffet.
Kanella’s co-owners Konstantinos Pitsillides (front) and his wife, Caroline, with the restaurant’s sous chef, Omer Taffet. RON TARVER / Staff Photographer

Updated, based on a recent revisit

A far cry from the typical taverna, this corner BYOB near Washington Square is a heartfelt homage to the authentic Cypriot-Greek flavors of Konstantinos Pitsillides’ island home, with an emphasis on soulful game stews (goat, rabbit, venison), grape-leaf-wrapped fish, and ancient grains, like the trahana wheatberry goat’s milk soup from my most recent visit.

The spartan space belies the passion behind the rustic experience here, which is genuine and unique.

Service, which has occasionally rushed diners to accomodate crowds waiting for a seat, is one complaint Pitsillides says has been addressed.

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