Resurrection Ale House
2425 Grays Ferry Ave. (at Catherine), Philadelphia; 215-735-2202, www.resurrectionalehouse.com.
Brendan Hartranft and Leigh Maida, the couple behind Memphis Taproom and Local 44, have expanded their gastropub empire to a third emerging neighborhood, a Graduate Hospital, revamping a corner bar across from the Naval Square development. Casual and affordable, this pleasant bi-level space shares the serious beer focus of its siblings, but chef Joe Chmiko (ex-Buddakan and -Django) ups the culinary ambition, with a menu built on scratch cooking, Mediterranean flavors, and some exceptional vegetarian options.
Braised pork belly; pan con tomate; fingerling potatoes; braised Belgian endive; polenta and mushrooms; spicy shrimp with white gazpacho; burger; lentil sloppy joe; beef shank sandwich; twice-fried chicken; pork loin; maitake mushroom; steak (and eggs) and frites; rice pudding with figs and olive oil; cookie plate.
A beer-lover's destination, with 13 taps and 50 bottles focusing on high-octane, full-flavored Belgians and other international craft brews. Highlights included a local Victory Storm King on the beer engine, and bottles from Cantillon, Franziskaner, Founders, De Dolle, Russian River, and Rochefort.
An ear-boxing 92 decibels makes conversation tough. (Ideal is 75 decibels.)
IF YOU GO
Entire menu available Monday through Friday, noon-midnight; Saturday and Sunday, 3 p.m.-midnight. Saturday and Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Reservations not available.
Street parking only.