Drink

I'm always on the hunt for my next great summer white - a wine that can refresh, keep things interesting at a casual meal, and also be soft as an ocean breeze on the wallet. This year I've found a new infatuation, and it's verdejo, the signature white from the region of Rueda that dates to the 11th century, but only lately is becoming one of Spain's rising export stars.

This fresh 2010 Protos, on Chairman's Selection sale for $10.99 (down from $15.99), is a perfect introduction to a bottle that is 100 percent expression of the grape. On first sniff, it's invitingly juicy and exotic with aromas of green apple, jasmine, with maybe a little savory shade of fennel. Take a sip, though, and it does this earthy thing that the Spanish do better than anyone, offering a full burst of flavor on the front (quenching acidity and herbaceousness, with just enough glycerin richness to carry it for a while) that dries out completely on the finish with a pithy grapefruit smack. Take a nibble of your tapas (honeydew melon wrapped in Serrano ham?) and repeat.

- Craig LaBan
Protos Verdejo 2010 (code 32193), $10.99, at select Pennsylvania wine stores.
 

Note: The distributor advises that the Protos should be available in stores June 29.