Tea, so cool

Philadelphia's coffee culture is going full steam, but as days get longer and stickier, our cool-me-down and pick-me-up beverage options are moving beyond the bean. Heads up, iced coffee: Local drinkeries are giving more love to the leaf.

"People are starting to appreciate teas more," said Courtney Rozsas, 26, owner of Lotus Farm to Table in Media. "There is a higher demand, so we can experiment with flavors."

When she envisioned opening her BYO restaurant in her hometown in 2009, she wanted the emphasis to be on cups of tea as much as plates of food. She's happy to have created some converts. "We have some coffee drinkers that now only drink tea."

Hotter temperatures don't sway her philosophy one bit. When an order from her thoughtful ice tea menu is placed, Rozsas, with her California-girl looks, heads straight to the restaurant's back counter and mixes, weighs, adjusts, and muddles with the concentration of a chemist.

The results are drinkable works of art, like an oolong tea, made pink with fresh strawberry puree, rhubarb, and a touch of lemon. Blue hyssop, flowering and minty, is mixed with cucumber slices, grapefruit, and rosemary syrup, for an herbal drink that also happens to be begging for a splash of something a little more potent. (Wink, wink.) The subtle, earthy jasmine and green tea concoction with honey and lavender is the perfect accompaniment for some soul-searching in a Japanese meditation garden, or any commute that involves taking 76. Thankfully, you can get the drinks by the cup to go, or Rozsas sells the ingredients so you can brew a batch at home.

Tea pushers are known to talk about sustenance as much as flavor. Which seems only right, because as tasty as these treats might be, there's no ignoring the holistic benefits. Rozsas' menu says these drinks can help with weak immune systems, viruses, high cholesterol, and seasonal allergies.

Boris Ginsburgs, the passionate proprietor of Melange Tea Cart, has developed a loyal following for his warm and cold brews. (You'll find him most days on Market Street between 33d and 34th.) "Nine out of 10 customers don't order anything specific," he said. "They just tell me what their mood is or how they are feeling." Then he goes to work, maybe mixing chamomile with ginger for stuffed sinuses, or pulling out one of his best sellers, the mugicha, a Japanese roasted barley tea, which helps city dwellers stay cool. Ginsburgs estimates that he has created more than 65 types of ice teas - and tisanes, the French term for herbal "teas" such as chamomile and hibiscus - since he opened last year.

"It's nice to see people embracing the whole-leaf ice teas," said Alexis Siemons, a consultant and founder of tea-everything company Teaspoons & Petals, based in Bella Vista. "It's an easier caffeine alternative than iced coffee, and has so many flavor profiles. You can't add fruit to coffee."

Besides the expected tea shops, restaurants and coffeehouses are getting inspired by the possibilities. InFusion in Mount Airy has a well-ordered iced chai. The just-brewed Indian-spiced tea is blended with milk and honey and poured over ice. Queen Village's Cups & Chairs offers a Detox version heavy on cleansing lemon and made verdant with matcha, a Japanese green tea powder that is high in caffeine. Bean Exchange on Bainbridge Street has seen an uptick in cold tea orders; the lemon mint, ginger peach, and green tea with basil and ginger are popular.

It's not all PG-13. Center City's Oyster House restaurant, known for its killer cocktails, adds spiced black tea to vermouth for its Mother's Ruin punch.

Just like with iced coffee, experts love to debate the best practices for making a superior frosty brew.

"There are some teas that are better for icing," said Siemons. "I like black and oolong because you don't get as much flavor out of the delicate teas, like whites."

Black tea, she adds, is also a great base for fruity and herbal extras. Greens work well, but can quickly turn bitter, so be sure not to over-steep. For big flavor payoff with virtually no effort, there are plenty of specialty teas that ice up nice. Siemons recommends a milky oolong, which is dairy-free but naturally creamy and sweet. "It tastes just like a shortbread cookie."

The tea gurus all seem to prefer to brew cold, which only requires patience. Rozsas lets her loose tea sit in cold water at room temperature for two hours before moving it to the fridge to rest for four more hours, or even overnight. The loose leaves fall to the bottom; no need to strain.

If a craving hits, it is fine, says Siemons, to steep tea in hot water for a few minutes, then simmer with the fruity and herbal fixings for about 30 minutes, before chilling.

Those looking to get geeky should refer to the virtual tea bible that Ginsburgs has created, at melange-tea.com, which has three blog postings on the intricacies of icing.

Makes two 8-ounce cups

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6 strawberries

4 lemons, juiced, plus peel for garnish

2 ounces simple syrup (see note)

½ cup brewed oolong tea, cooled

6 drops rhubarb bitters

Ice

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1. Muddle strawberries, lemon juice, and simple syrup in a glass.

2. Add brewed tea and rhubarb bitters and stir well.

3. Fill a glass with ice, add tea, rub rim with lemon peel, and use it as a garnish.

Note: To make simple syrup, combine 4 tablespoons sugar and 4 tablespoons of water in a small pot. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and stir. Once sugar is dissolved, remove from heat and let cool.

Per serving: 153 calories, trace protein, 41 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams sugar, trace fat, no cholesterol, 31 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.EndText