Sauce that beef, three ways

Filet mignon is one of the tenderest and easiest cuts of beef to cook. Too bad it's also one of the priciest. Get the most beefy bang for your buck by serving this cut with a sauce that adds flavor, color, and texture.

Here are three sauce recipes. All are easy to make, so don't feel you're stuck with serving one sauce at a time. Remember how half the fun of an old-fashioned beef fondue was having a variety of sauces on the table to dip your cooked meat into. Offer one, two, three (or more!) sauces when you whisk that filet off the grill.

Once you've made these sauces, let imagination take you in other directions. Try a classic bearnaise, or spoon up a chunky salsa made from chopped tomatoes, onions, parsley, and capers.

A yogurt-cucumber raita from India would be a cooling counterpoint to the sizzling meat, while a mustard butter would add a silky richness.

Any of these sauces, condiments or toppings will spark up more than a filet mignon or other beef cut. Try them with grilled chicken, leg of lamb, even grilled salmon or swordfish.

This basic how-to for grilling four 8-ounce filet mignon steaks is adapted from Weber's Time to Grill (Oxmoor House, $24.95), by Jamie Purviance.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat (350 to 450 degrees). Season steaks with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature 15 to 30 minutes. Grill over direct medium heat, with lid closed, until cooked to desired doneness (8 to 10 minutes for medium rare), turning once or twice. Remove steaks from grill, let rest 3 to 5 minutes.

Makes 2 cups or about 16 servings

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3/4 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup sake

1/2 cup mirin

1/4 cup rice vinegar

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1. Combine ingredients in a saucepan and heat to a boil over medium heat. Boil 1 minute.

2. Cool, then refrigerate at least 12 hours to let flavors mingle. Store refrigerated up to 1 month. Makes 2 cups.

Per serving: 31 calories, 1 gram protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, no fat, no cholesterol, 739 milligrams sodium, no dietary fiber.

Makes enough for about 4 servings

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1 cup packed cilantro (stems and leaves)

1 cup packed mint (leaves only)

1 green serrano chile

1/4 small red onion, sliced

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

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1. Blend ingredients to a smooth paste in a blender. Add up to 2 tablespoons water, if needed.

2. Chill, covered, 30 minutes.

Per serving: 16 calories, 1 grams protein, 3 grams carbohydrates, trace fat, no cholesterol, 300 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

Makes enough for about 16 servings

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3 tablespoons tarragon  (divided use)

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons white wine

1/3 cup finely chopped shallots

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1 tomato, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

3 sticks butter

4 egg yolks

2 tablespoons water

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

11/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

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1. Combine 2 tablespoons tarragon, vinegar, white wine, and shallots in a saucepan over medium heat; cook until all but a tablespoon of the liquid has evaporated. Let cool.

2. Melt 2 to 3 tablespoons butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the peeled, seeded, and chopped tomato. Cook for 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon tomato paste; heat to a boil. Mash well; let cool. Stir in 1 tablespoon each finely chopped tarragon and parsley.

3. Heat 3 sticks butter in a small saucepan over low heat until bubbling but not brown. Put 4 egg yolks, 2 tablespoons water, 1/4 teaspoon each salt and white pepper, and 11/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice in a blender. Cover; blend on high. Immediately, with blender running, add hot butter in a steady stream. Stir in shallot mixture and tomato mixture. Serve warm.

Per serving: 186 calories, 1 gram protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, 20 grams fat, 102 milligrams cholesterol, 172 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.