Saturday, September 5, 2015

Brunch goes boom on a biale

Amis´ Jersey Cannonball - handmade pork roll, egg, pepper relish, and pecorino on a biale.
Amis' Jersey Cannonball - handmade pork roll, egg, pepper relish, and pecorino on a biale. RON TARVER / Staff Photographer

Brunch goes boom on a biale

Amis is full of unique Italian-inflected surprises when it comes to weekend brunch, from fresh-squeezed blood orange juice, to homemade scrapple with polenta, and snappy paccheri pasta tossed with the house-ground breakfast sausage. The biggest surprise, though, isn't Italian at all, but a zesty breakfast sandwich nod to chef Brad Spence's Haddonfield roots and kitchen nickname: The Jersey Cannonball. Inspired by the egg-and-pork roll combos of his youth, Spence's rendition gets house-cooked upgrades all around, from the convincing onion- and poppy-dusted biale (the bagel's rarely seen, unboiled ancestor) to the griddled handmade pork roll scented with nutmeg and garlic, which gets topped with a sunnyside-up egg, pepper relish, and melted young pecorino. It's so memorable that Amis doesn't even put it on the menu - though it's always available and frequently ordered. A sandwich with that pedigree can make its own splash.

- Craig LaBan
The Jersey Cannonball, $7 at brunch, Amis, 412 S. 13th St., 215-732-2647.

Inquirer Restaurant Critic
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