Good Taste

Sushi for shoppers

If holiday shopping in downtown Collingswood gives you a yen for sushi, it's worth taking notice of five-month-old Woksabi in the new Lumberyard complex. This sleek new pan-Asian spot has a wide-ranging menu, from stir-fries to Japanese noodle soups, but sushi is clearly the focus. Not yet quite up to my South Jersey sushi favorites Sagami, Fuji, Oh Yoko! or Megu, but the quality of the fish and craftsmanship of the rolls is commendable. I especially liked the clever oyster roll, a crisply fried tender bivalve inside a roll draped in the sheer sweetness of slivered mango dabbed with katsu sauce. The Pink Panther, which tucks spicy tuna and tempura-fried eel inside a seaweed-free sheet of pink soybean paper, is stylish as well as tasty. For that lucky shopaholic, it might even be color-coordinated.

- Craig LaBan
The oyster roll, $12; Pink Panther roll, $15, at Woksabi, 608 Haddon Ave., Collingswood, 856-858-6688.