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Tasty meals for trying times: Joy of cooking from scratch

Times are lean and household budgets are getting leaner. As economists reflect back on the Great Depression, home cooks may do well to hark back to American kitchens of that era - when meals were made with seasonal produce and less meat. A time when processed foods, like reconstituted ramen, were not an option.

Times are lean and household budgets are getting leaner. As economists reflect back on the Great Depression, home cooks may do well to hark back to American kitchens of that era - when meals were made with seasonal produce and less meat. A time when processed foods, like reconstituted ramen, were not an option.

"Cooking from scratch is one of the best ways we have to save money," says Mindy Rottmund, president of the Pennsylvania Association of Family and Consumer Sciences Inc. "Thankfully, we have many more conveniences than we did in the 1930s, so it takes much less time."

Cutting back costs in the kitchen shouldn't mean sacrificing flavor, health, or the integrity of food choices. In fact, experts say difficult economic times may actually encourage a healthier, more balanced diet of locally grown food.

If you build meals around ingredients that pack a strong nutritional punch for the dollar, these wholesome foods will not only provide sustenance, they may save health-related expenses down the line, says Dorothy Blair, assistant professor of nutrition at Pennsylvania State University.

She recommends whole grains such as barley, quinoa and oats; sweet potatoes; long-lasting winter squashes; and hearty greens such as spinach, chard and kale.

"Kale is a fabulous vegetable in the fall and winter because it has loads of calcium," says Blair. "But even something like parsley, which we typically think of as a garnish, has a lot of nutritional value. As a vegetable it is cheap to buy, and you can sneak it into tomato sauce, potatoes and salads."

Peanut butter is another high-value food that Blair recommends, as well as Alaskan salmon in a can, which is packed with omega-3 fatty acids, cheaper than filets, and a good substitute for tuna fish.

As the price of high-quality meats continues to rise, now is the time to model a Mediterranean or Asian diet, using meat as a side dish rather than a main.

"You really only need three ounces of meat or fish in a serving," says Rottmund. "It looks small when you are used to restaurant portions, but you will adjust to it."

Or, try devoting two or three meals a week to meatless offerings. Consider nut butters, vegetable-cream cheese spreads, and hummus for meatless sandwich fillings. Portobello mushrooms, tofu and tempeh can make a cheaper substitute for main-course dishes.

Beans and legumes are a perennial favorite for the cheap kitchen because they last a long time, offer plenty of fiber and protein, and can be cooked in myriad ways.

"Beans on toast are very easy to make, and they are one of our favorite staff meals at Pub and Kitchen," says Jonathan McDonald, chef at that Center City gastropub. "You can add a little cheese or egg to make it more substantial."

Stretching one cooking session into several meals is an age-old way to save time and money. Liz Solms, of Sweet Pea Nourishment catering company, suggests making a large pot of marinara sauce with a combination of fresh and canned tomatoes. (See accompanying recipe.)

One night's spaghetti dinner can become the base for vegetarian chili, lasagne or meat stew. Simply substitute the sauce when a recipe calls for canned tomatoes. Freeze any extra tomato sauce in smaller containers for a ready-to-go dinner.

Restaurant chefs will use leftover beef bones or a chicken carcass to make stock; do this at home and save the stock in the freezer for sauces, soups and roasts.

Look to time-tested cultural traditions for interesting ways to recycle leftovers. Chef McDonald points out that in England, extra lamb roast is the basis for the next night's shepherd's pie.

It's also important not to make assumptions about cost, as even traditionally cheaper items such as rice and flour have become significantly more expensive in recent months.

"We've seen rice go way up in the last two years - a package of basmati that once cost me $12 now costs $45," says Patrick Feury, chef/owner of Nectar restaurant in Berwyn and Maia in Villanova. "But by the same token, you can't always assume that a traditionally expensive item will always be out of reach. I've seen lobster selling for as little as $4 a pound," he said.

Looking for traditionally less desirable and therefore cheaper cuts of meat is another way to save: "Ask your butcher for wing tips, which no one wants, and you can make stock from them," says McDonald. "Steak ends or tips work well for fajitas, kabobs or stews. It sometimes takes more work to find and make these things, but it's worth it."

Rump roasts, shanks and shoulders are also relative bargains. While they take more time to cook, they reward with deep flavor, and the time involved doesn't require active vigilance. Prep ingredients for a braise or stew the night before, and throw it into a slow cooker before you leave for work. Eight hours later, dinner is ready.

If you stay focused on what's in season, you'll be rewarded with not only cheaper produce, but fresher and tastier fruits and vegetables. And, as a bonus, you'll be supporting local farmers. Foods to watch out for right now are apples, pears, kale, brussels sprouts and root vegetables.

And don't be afraid to get creative by substituting seasonal ingredients in favorite recipes. If arctic char is in season and cheaper at the market, substitute it for salmon or vice versa. A stew such as beef braised in stout (see accompanying recipe) may call for beef, potatoes and carrots, but other ingredients will work.

"You can easily use lamb or pork shoulder or root vegetables like rutabaga, parsnips and turnips, if that's what you have around," McDonald says. "The bottom line is you can make use of everything if you cook with necessity in mind."

Beef Stew With Stout

Makes 8-10 servings

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4 pounds inexpensive boned beef, such as shank, short ribs or brisket

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

8 ounces unsmoked bacon or pancetta

2 cups stout beer

4 cloves

1 onion, peeled and halved

4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed with the side of a knife

2-4 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered

2 carrots, peeled and cut into big chunks

1 28-ounce can peeled whole tomatoes

2 cups low-sodium beef broth

1 thyme sprig

2 bay leaves

6 peppercorns

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1. Cut beef into large chunks. Season on both sides with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Heat a large saute pan and add bacon or pancetta. Cook over medium heat until bacon is golden and most of the fat has rendered. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to a Crock-Pot.

3. Add beef to the pan and cook until brown on all sides, about 4 minutes per side, working in batches if necessary. Transfer beef to the Crock-Pot.

4. Add beer to the pan and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up the browned bits of meat on the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil, then pour beer and browned bits into the Crock-Pot.

5. Stick cloves into onion halves. Add garlic, potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, peppercorns and broth to Crock-Pot. Add thyme and bay leaves to Crock-Pot and set it to cook for 8 hours. Remove onion. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Per serving (based on 10): 460 calories, 51 grams protein, 17 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams sugar, 19 grams fat, 99 milligrams cholesterol, 878 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

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Spicy Lentils With Pumpkin and Greens Over Couscous

Makes 4 to 6 servings

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3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium onions, diced

2 tablespoons smoked paprika

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 cup French green lentils, soaked for at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours in the refrigerator

1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes with their juice

2 pounds pumpkin or winter squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes

sea salt or kosher salt

1 pound kale, tough stems discarded

freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 cups quick cooking couscous (regular or whole wheat), prepared according to package

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1. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the paprika, cumin, coriander and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for 2 more minutes.

2. Drain the lentils and add them to the vegetables, along with the tomatoes and their juice. Add enough cold water just to cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Add the pumpkin, cover, and simmer, stirring a few times, until tender, about 20 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the kale and boil for 2 minutes, until wilted. Drain and coarsely chop.

5. Add the kale to the lentils and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for another 3 minutes, and serve over the couscous.

Per serving (based on 6): 491 calories, 21 grams protein, 85 grams carbohydrates, 9 grams sugar, 9 grams fat, no cholesterol, 267 milligrams sodium, 12 grams dietary fiber.

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Arctic Char With Brussels Sprouts and Parsley Sauce

Makes 4 to 8 servings

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24 ounces cleaned skin-on arctic char

3/4 ounce salt

3/4 ounce sugar

24 brussels sprouts

2 ounces butter

11/2 ounces chopped flat parsley, divided, plus 2 ounces whole parsley leaves

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 ounces extra virgin olive oil

1 ounce lemon juice

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1.   Filet and bone the fish. Cut into 3- to 6-ounce portions, leaving the skin on. Season fish with salt and sugar.

2.   Make the vinaigrette by combining the 4 ounces of olive oil, lemon juice and ½ ounce of parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3.   Cut each brussels sprout into six wedges. Heat the butter in a saute pan and cook the brussels sprouts until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and season with salt and black pepper, then toss with 1 ounce of parsley.

4.   Heat the tablespoon of olive oil in a saute pan over moderately high heat and place fish skin-side down. Cook until skin is crispy, then flip and continue cooking until opaque.

5.   Divide brussels sprouts among four plates and arrange them on the middle of each plate. Place a piece of arctic char on top of the sprouts. Divide whole parsley leaves among plates, adding them on top of the char, then drizzle the parsley vinaigrette around and on the parsley salad.

Per serving (based on 8): 327 calories, 21 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams sugar, 24 grams fat, 8 milligrams cholesterol, 380 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

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Simple Roasted Tomato Marinara Sauce

Makes 4 servings

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3 to 5 whole fresh plum tomatoes, halved and seeded

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

salt and ground black pepper to taste

About 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided use

1/4 cup diced yellow onion

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 28-ounce cans whole peeled tomatoes

1 tablespoon fresh minced oregano (or 2 teaspoons dried)

4 fresh basil leaves, chopped

pinch of red chile flakes

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (to finish the sauce)

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1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Place halved tomatoes on baking sheet, open-side up, drizzle with about 1 tablespoon olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Season heavily with salt and pepper. Transfer sheet to oven and roast tomatoes until softened and browned, about 45 minutes.

3. When the tomatoes are nearly finished, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan over a medium flame. Add onions and a pinch of salt and saute for 2 minutes. Add garlic and continue to saute for 2 minutes more.

4. Add canned and roasted tomatoes and the herbs to the pot, reduce the heat to medium-low, and let the sauce simmer for 20 minutes. Stir occasionally.

5. Using an immersion blender or food processor, puree sauce. Continue to cook until your desired consistency is reached.

6. Remove sauce from heat and season with salt and pepper. Slowly stir in ¼ cup of oil. Check the seasoning again and adjust with more salt and pepper if necessary.

Per serving: 281 calories, 5 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrates, 15 grams sugar, 22 grams fat, no cholesterol, 673 milligrams sodium, 5 grams dietary fiber.

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Sweet Winter Squash Bread With Cloves and Cinnamon

Makes 2 loaves

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1 acorn squash

1/4 cup soy milk

11/2 cups flour

11/2 cups whole wheat flour

1 cup wheat germ

11/2 cups sugar

1 cup brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

11/2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 cup canola or vegetable oil

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1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and lightly flour two standard loaf pans.

2. Slice acorn squash in half, remove and discard seeds, and roast flesh-up until tender all the way through when pricked with a fork, about one hour.

3. When the squash is cool enough to touch, scoop out the insides into the bowl of a food processor and puree with the soy milk until smooth. Set aside.

4. Mix together flour, whole wheat flour, wheat germ, sugar, brown sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg until thoroughly blended.

5. Create a well and pour in eggs, oil and pureed squash. Gently stir until the mixture forms a moist batter.

6. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pans and bake until a toothpick placed in the center comes out clean, approximately 50 to 60 minutes.

Per serving (with 8 slices per loaf): 311 calories, 7 grams protein, 53 grams carbohydrates, 27 grams sugar, 9 grams fat, 53 milligrams cholesterol, 273 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

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