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GoodTaste

Hold the papaya! The Main Line borough of Narberth is hardly a hotbed of ethnic diversity. But it boasts an authentic French patisserie and an Osaka-style Japanese lunch counter. Now comes a Thai cafe turning out very decent Pad Thai, hearty vegetarian stir fries with coc

LAURENCE KESTERSON / Staff Photographer
LAURENCE KESTERSON / Staff PhotographerRead more

Hold the papaya!

The Main Line borough of Narberth is hardly a hotbed of ethnic diversity. But it boasts an authentic French patisserie and an Osaka-style Japanese lunch counter. Now comes a Thai cafe turning out very decent Pad Thai, hearty vegetarian stir fries with coconut milk, and a fresh take on the traditional Thai green papaya salad. In this version, crisp shreds of Granny Smith apple stand in for the papaya, and are added to threads of carrot, lemon juice ("som," means sour) mashed chile and garlic ("tum," means to pound), tomato, green pepper and ground peanuts. It's dressed with a bright, sweet-sour, citrus-brown sugar dressing, as briskly refreshing as an encounter with a Thai BYO where you'd least expect it.

Thai Apple Som Tom, $7.95 (enough to share), Coco Thai Bistro, 231 Haverford Ave., Narberth, 610-667-7634.

- Rick Nichols