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GoodTaste

My only complaint about the elegant Cape May Salt oyster is that it's a devil to find. You can pick up a net bag at the Lobster House in Cape May, of course. But with the Sansom Street Oyster House closed for renovation, the bivalve has lost one of its mo

My only complaint about the elegant Cape May Salt oyster is that it's a devil to find. You can pick up a net bag at the Lobster House in Cape May, of course. But with the Sansom Street Oyster House closed for renovation, the bivalve has lost one of its most reliable city venues. Which is why it was a delight to discover it on the half shell, the "house oyster" at the Pub & Kitchen, the new Graduate Hospital-area eat-and-drinkery. The oysters, farmed just north of Cape May, are medium size with a sleek, meaty chew and hint of fruitiness. Best, they pick up the higher salinity of the lower Delaware Bay. They're served with mignonette. But why mess with success? Just give them a spritz of lemon.

Cape May Salts, $12 a half dozen, $22 a dozen, Pub & Kitchen, 1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350, www.thepubandkitchen.com

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-Rick Nichols