Mr. Joe's Cafe, just right for a frittata fling

IN THE MASS-MARKET world of Starbucks and other chains, when a small, authentic, independent cafe/coffeehouse appears, you tend to be a little forgiving.

So what if the hours make you feel as if you are rushing to a Florida Early Bird special to catch dinner before 5 p.m.? The food's good, the prices reasonable, and the portions ample enough that you have a snack to take home for later in the evening.

Mr. Joe's Cafe opened last year in the building that once-upon-a-time housed the original Termini's Bakery on 8th Street in South Philly. The late Mr. Joe was the bakery's founder and this cafe is Vince Termini's tribute to his father.

The decor is a mix of sleek new counters and bakery cases with artifacts from the early years of Termini's. Family photos blend with period pieces of Sinatra and other famous Italian sons.

At first, I found the giant flat-screen TV that dominates one wall very distracting, but the atmosphere at Mr. Joe's is really more like being in your favorite aunt and uncle's living room and, of course, they have the TV on all day. You learn to ignore it.

Anna Maria Di Gregorio is the hospitable front-of-the-house "aunt" who offers up a biscotti while you wait for your frittata or, if you show up drenched from an unexpected rainstorm and need to recover, a dash of complimentary Sambuca in your coffee.

The Frittata ($6, depending on filling) is the perfect breakfast/brunch dish. It is served with toast made from a hearty, crusty bread that is chewy enough to stand up to a dunk in coffee. But it is the cooking method that is remarkable here. High heat cooks the eggs so that they almost become a pocket for the fillings. The potato and mozzarella cheese combo creates a light creamy dish, but a heartier sausage and pepper works, too.

Check out the Zuppa del Giorno, or soup of the day (about $5). On a recent visit, the offering was Pea With Fava Beans, and it came with or without pasta. I'll always gild a lily, so of course I chose mine with pasta.

The fava beans were sublimely earthy and paired well with the grassy peas. I'm guessing this will be one of my regular winter soup stops that will keep me warm.

I've tried for years to start a movement to make the sandwich of record in Philly the roast pork, rather than the cheesesteak. No doubt Mr. Joe's Roast Pork Sandwich with Provolone & Broccoli Rabe ($7) proves my point.

The bread is imported - from the Northeast - and it is a perfect sandwich bread. A chewy crust and not so much innards as to need anything scooped out, but enough to soak up the cheese and the marvelous pork juices scented with oregano and garlic. Plus, I love a city that uses a vegetable as condiment on its sandwiches; this rabe has a nice bitter accent.

Gnocchi ($7) with Marinara Sauce was an ample portion, and this basic dish relied on its simplicity. Light, doughy orbs absorbed just enough of the sauce. It's great for sharing, but if you are dining alone it won't be too shabby reheated in the microwave the next day.

Spaghetti in Garlic Oil with Pine Nuts ($7.50) was the only dish that didn't hit the mark. There wasn't enough garlic or parsley to give the sauce flavor or substance.

But I forgave the garlic spaghetti slip when I tasted the Penne Arrabbiate - Tomato Sauce With Red Hot Pepper, Black Olives and Capers ($7). The sauce had just enough of a kick from the pepper while the olives and capers kept things interesting.

Of course, you have Termini desserts making their way across the street. A slice of the cheesecake with an espresso is the perfect ending to your meal.

The cake was creamy, yet dense, and offered a hint of lemon. I loved the exterior "skin" that forms on the backside. Like that "Seinfeld" muffin-top episode, I wish I could create a cheesecake piece of all cake rim.

(Note: Skip the cherry cheesecake, whose cherry filling overwhelms the delicate cheesecake flavor.)

The Chocolate Cake seemed to have too much going on: gooey frosting, sweet cherry filling and cake. Still, it had its fans at my table and it is definitely worth sharing a taste or two. And let's face it, with the bakery connection you won't lack pastry options that suit your taste. *