Good Taste
The long history of Chinese cooking in America has evolved toward the sweet and syrupy. By contrast, in India, where the fusion is known as "Indo-Chinese," the flavors that emerged over the last century from the Chinese community
Going for Gobi
The long history of Chinese cooking in America has evolved toward the sweet and syrupy. By contrast, in India, where the fusion is known as "Indo-Chinese," the flavors that emerged over the last century from the Chinese community in eastern India have veered toward high-voltage spice and sour. Take my new favorite vegetarian dish, which is becoming more common in Philadelphia-area Indian restaurants: Gobi Manchurian. The cauliflower florets are crisped in a seasoned corn batter, then sauced in a mahogany slick that could be mistaken for General Tso's - until you take a bite. At the Dosa Hut in Eagleville, where I order mine "dry" (instead of in gravy), the soy- and tomato-based sauce also rings with powdered coriander and chiles, spicy sambal oelek paste, and a tangy undertow (vinegar?) that keeps your fork coming back, even if the spice on your tongue is glowing, "Stop!"
- Craig LaBan
Gobi Manchurian, $10.95, Dosa Hut, 2864 Ridge Pike, Eagleville, 610-631-2787.