Three accomplished local restaurant vets have collaborated on a handsome contemporary bistro for Ardmore's Suburban Square - with unexpectedly disappointing results considering the resumés (Sampan, Rouge, Talula's Table). The concept of updated American fare seems spot-on for the conservative crowd, from roast chicken to pot pie, but disastrous instability with staffing has taken a toll on execution in both the dining room and the kitchen, where clumsy cooking afflicted virtually every dish. With more effective attention, significant improvement could and should happen here fast.
Raw bar (crab claws, shrimp cocktail); tuna tartare; franks in a blanket; clam and bacon flatbread; mushroom soup; cheeseburger; roasted chicken; vanilla-cranberry bread pudding.
The small wine list is relatively inexpensive, but also built largely on mediocre bottles, which makes the markups seem steep. The beer selection is also small, but at least has a few craft selections (Sixpoint, Flying Fish, Stoudt's, Ommegang) to choose from. There is a full bar, but craftsmanship on the cocktails (even the sangria) was lacking.
With tile and other hard surfaces everywhere, the low-90s decibel roar can be hard to talk over. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Dinner Sunday through Wednesday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, until 11 p.m. Brunch Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.