Tap your inner line cook and go for the offal and craft beer at Pennsport's gastropub ode to local restaurant culture, from the owners of Good Dog Bar. The kitchen delivers fun, ambitious twists on familiar flavors, even if tweaks are still needed for the menu to hit its stride. The actual experience isn't quite as edgy as the insider concept blusters, which means that this handsome space, clad in reclaimed barn planks, is user-friendly for all, and a welcome neighborhood anchor.
Craft beer stars with a dozen fine brews on tap (Troegs Scratch 78; 21st Amendment Zambo Imperial Red; Firestone Walker Double Jack) and 20 bottles, including several large-formats from Russian River. But cocktails are also a focus, with a return of Swift Half's Ghost of Mary, refreshing Lucky Loser, and a Cognac-infused Sazerac called Voodoo Lady. The wine list is also the most ambitious yet from this crew, with affordable and worthwhile choices by the glass (Broadbent Vinho Verde; Begali Ripasso; sparkling Malvasia Nero) and bottle (Rossignole Sancerre; Barbed Oak pinot noir). The "Burgers and Bubbles" special is great fun.
Weeknights can still be almost reasonable, but weekends hit a noisy mid-90s decibel pitch.
Dinner nightly, 4 p.m.-1 a.m. (Bar open until 2 a.m.) Brunch Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.