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Cool cookbooks for summer

Faced with a choice between updating a beach wardrobe or my cache of cookbooks suited to warm weather, I'll go with the latter every time. Waves of spring and summer ingredients ebb and flow with such urgent appeal that it's all too easy to celebrate them

Scallop and Blueberry Seviche, made from a recipe in the new cookbook. (Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey)
Scallop and Blueberry Seviche, made from a recipe in the new cookbook. (Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey)Read more

Faced with a choice between updating a beach wardrobe or my cache of cookbooks suited to warm weather, I'll go with the latter every time. Waves of spring and summer ingredients ebb and flow with such urgent appeal that it's all too easy to celebrate them simply, and mostly unadorned. But an innovative recipe that involves, say, blueberries will work its way into my gray matter - the result of which is that twice the usual amount comes home from the farmer's market, or half of what's on hand is held in reserve.

Besides quirks of preparation, I look for cookbooks with resource value. Although I won't dive into The Freekeh Cookbook every other day, I might remember from flipping through it that lasagnas, a shrimp dish, and even a spicy meatless burger are among my options. Finding an engaging, thoughtful writer like Sunday Telegraph columnist Diana Henry is a bonus. Her A Change of Appetite has spent as much time on the bedside table as it has on the kitchen counter.

In alphabetical order, here's a look at the summer cookbook offerings:

A Change of Appetite: Where Healthy Meets Delicious, by Diana Henry (Mitchell Beazley; $35). If you're not acquainted with this London author's work, this is a fine place to start. She's smart, detail-oriented, an enthusiast of many cuisines, and does her own lovely food styling.

The Better Bean Cookbook: More Than 160 Modern Recipes for Beans, Chickpeas, and Lentils to Tempt Meat-Eaters and Vegetarians Alike, by Jenny Chandler (Sterling Epicure; $25). The very long subtitle means there's meat and seafood in the book. In addition to this trove of unfussy recipes, the cooking instructor and food blogger offers a gemlike glossary and soak/no-soak chart.

The Freekeh Cookbook: Healthy, Delicious, Easy-to-Prepare Meals With America's Hottest Grain, by Bonnie Matthews (Skyhorse Publishing; $18). The former part-time Trader Joe's demo cook was so taken with freekeh that she partnered with a producer to grow and sell an organic form of the ancient cracked green wheat.

Fruitful: Four Seasons of Fresh Fruit Recipes, by Brian Nicholson and Sarah Huck (Running Press; $27.50). Props go to the farm-savvy authors for offering several gooseberry dishes. Skip ahead to the "Putting Up for Winter" chapter, where more summer fruits are featured.

International Night: A Father and Daughter Cook Their Way Around the World, by Mark Kurlansky and Talia Kurlansky (Bloomsbury; $29). This is an early favorite in the coming wave of cookbooks for children, because of its rating system for difficulty, its range, and the way in which Talia's notes are spot-on. Everybody can learn and everybody will eat.

Itsu the Cookbook: 100 Low-Calorie Eat Beautiful Recipes for Health and Happiness, by Julian Metcalfe and Blanche Vaughan, with Angela Dowden (Mitchell Beazley; $20). The man who has planted a Pret A Manger on hundreds of street corners focuses here on clean Asian eating and simple preparations, with a particularly chockablock chapter of sauces and dressings.

Southern Living's The Slim Down South Cookbook: Eating Well and Living Healthy in the Land of Biscuits and Bacon, by Carolyn O'Neil (Oxmoor House; $25). We'll put aside any debate over whether almond biscotti and migas tacos represent the title material. "Stay-slim secrets" of the successful and Southern, including the Lee Brothers and chef Hugh Acheson, are sprinkled throughout the book; chew on those.

The Cheesemonger's Seasons: Recipes for Enjoying Cheeses With Ripe Fruits and Vegetables, by Chester Hastings (Chronicle; $35). The chef-author's pairings are unexpected; he understands that cheese can play a key role alongside a well-constructed dish as well as incorporated within it. Chances are good that you'll be seeking out cheeses you've never heard of - a worthwhile endeavor.

Treat Yourself: 70 Classic Snacks You Loved as a Kid (and Still Love Today), by Jennifer Steinhauer (Clarkson Potter; $20). Boomers' guilty pleasures are writ pure (read: preservative-free) in this clever collection. This is not all Twinkies and Heath Bars - there are Fritos and Ritz Crackers, too.

Vibrant Food: Celebrating the Ingredients, Recipes, and Colors of Each Season, by Kimberley Hasselbrink (Ten Speed Press; $25). Ingredient combinations are as appealing as the photography here: za'atar and pecans on broiled figs; kiwi and grapefruit in parfaits; grilled haloumi cheese with strawberries and herbs.

Yucatan: Recipes From a Culinary Expedition, by David Sterling (University of Texas Press; $60). Endorsements from Mexican culinary expert Diana Kennedy come few and far between, so Sterling, founder of Los Dos Cooking School, must know what he's doing. At 500-plus pages and coffee-table size, the book is sure to be a long-term, definitive reference.

Butterflied Leg of Lamb With Sekenjabin

Makes 8 servings

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For the sekenjabin (syrup):  

11/4 cups water

3/4 cup sugar

2/3 cup white wine vinegar

1 cup packed mint leaves, divided

For the lamb:

5-pound butterflied, boneless leg of lamb

6 cloves garlic, chopped

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for rubbing the meat

Leaves from 2 heads romaine lettuce, rinsed and patted dry

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1. Combine the water and sugar in a large saucepan over medium heat. Once the mixture starts bubbling, stir to make sure the sugar has dissolved. Add the vinegar and reduce the heat to medium-low; cook for 15 minutes, then remove the saucepan from the heat. The syrup will thicken a bit as it cools.

2. Reserve 1/2 cup of the mint leaves; add about a third of the remaining leaves to the syrup to infuse as it cools. Once the sekenjabin has thoroughly cooled, discard the leaves.

3. Preheat the oven to 435 degrees. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Use a small, sharp knife to pierce the lamb in several places.

4. Combine the garlic, what's left of the 1/2 cup of mint, and a good pinch each of salt and black pepper in a mortar and pestle; grind, adding the 3 tablespoons of oil, to form a coarse paste. (Alternatively, you can use a mini food processor.) Rub the mixture into the meat all over and especially into the slits. Spread the lamb on the baking sheet, fattier side up. Roast for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 375 degrees and roast for 15 minutes (for medium-rare). Remove the lamb from the oven; tent it loosely with foil and let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Chop the reserved 1/2 cup of mint and add it to the chilled sekenjabin. Arrange the lettuce leaves in a wide, shallow bowl. Cut the lamb into long, thin slices, reserving the meat juices; serve the sekenjabin alongside the lamb. Separate the fat from the meat juices; pass the juices at the table.

Note: The sekenjabin can be prepared and refrigerated a day in advance. The meat needs to rest in the rub for 15 to 20 minutes before roasting.

Per serving: 480 calories, 60 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrates, 11 grams sugar, 18 grams fat, 180 milligrams cholesterol, 220 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber.

Peach and Pine Nut Tarts With Triple-Cream Cheese

Makes 6 to 12 servings

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For the crust:

2 cups flour, plus more for the work surface

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

12 tablespoons chilled, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk, beaten

For the filling:

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/2 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup pine nuts, finely chopped

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 or 4 medium ripe peaches

6 ounces Explorateur or other soft-ripened triple-cream cheese, cut into 6 equal pieces

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1. For the crust: Combine the flour, sugar, salt, and lemon zest in a food processor; pulse to blend. Add the butter pieces and pulse just long enough to form a crumbly mix with pieces the size of small peas. Add the egg and egg yolk; pulse just until the dough comes together.

2. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Turn the dough out onto it and roll into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

3. Arrange the tart pans (see note) on a baking sheet.

4. Unwrap the dough. Roll out on the floured work surface to a thickness of 1/8 inch. (If the dough is too firm, let it sit for 5 minutes before rolling.) Cut into 6 equal pieces; press each piece into a tart pan, trimming off any excess; the dough can be rerolled once. Prick the bottoms with a fork all over, then refrigerate for 10 minutes.

5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line the chilled tart shells with parchment paper and ceramic weights, dried beans, or raw rice. Bake for 15 minutes or as needed until the tart shells are firm and dry but not browned. Cool while you make the filling.

6. For the filling: Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held electric mixer. Beat on low then medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl.

7. On medium speed, add the eggs one at a time until well incorporated. Stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl.

8. On low speed, add the flour, pine nuts, and vanilla extract; beat until just combined.

9. Divide all the filling among individual tart shells (still in their pans), smoothing the tops.

10. Cut the peaches in half; discard the pits. Cut each half into thin slices, then arrange them as you wish, so they mostly cover the filling of each tart. Bake for 40 minutes, or until the center of the filling feels firm and springs back when gently pressed. Transfer the tarts (in the pans) to a wire rack to cool for 20 minutes, then remove the tarts from their pans.

11. Serve with a piece of the cheese alongside each tart (or tart half).

Note: You'll need six 5-inch tart pans with removable bottoms, or individual small, disposable aluminum pie pans (available at the grocery store).

Make ahead: The dough needs to be refrigerated for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

Per serving (based on 12): 440 calories, 9 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 16 grams sugar, 29 grams fat, 125 milligrams cholesterol, 160 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber. EndText

Scallop and Blueberry Ceviche

Makes 6 servings

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1 pound sea scallops, patted dry, then cut into 1/4-inch slices (see note)

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1 to 2 serrano chili peppers, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

3 strips lime peel (no pith)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2/3 cup fresh lime juice

1 cup fresh blueberries

1/4 cup chopped cilantro (optional)

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1. Combine the scallops, onion, chilies (to taste), lime peel, a small pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper in a large, nonreactive (such as ceramic or glass) bowl. Pour in the lime juice and toss to coat. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate, tossing occasionally, for at least 2 hours or up to overnight (16 hours at most).

2. Just before serving, add the blueberries and the cilantro, if using, and toss to combine. Taste, and add salt and pepper as needed.

3. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the ceviche to individual cocktail (martini) glasses or small plates; serve right away.

Note: You might find it easier to slice the scallops if they have spent a quick 10 minutes in the freezer beforehand.

Per serving: 90 calories, 13 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 1 gram fat, 25 milligrams cholesterol, 160 milligrams sodium, no dietary fiber.EndText