Monday, December 15, 2014

Greens add texture, taste to meals

Beet greens, collard, chard, and mustard greens, among others, can make those summer dinners more interesting.

Summer brings fresh greens, such as chard and baby chard, filling the bins at farmers´ markets breaking the rule of kale which seems ever present today. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune/MCT)
Summer brings fresh greens, such as chard and baby chard, filling the bins at farmers' markets breaking the rule of kale which seems ever present today. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune/MCT)

You're all over the kale trend, baking loads of leaves into crisp chips, sauteing bagfuls with olive oil and garlic. It's time to break the hold kale has over your kitchen.

With summer's leafy greens piling up at farmers markets, in your garden, and at the supermarket, go ahead and give kale's botanical cousins a place at your table. Pick one, any one: beet greens, collards, chard, escarole, mustard greens. They all saute up beautifully, but their potential goes way beyond that.

They can add color and texture to, say, a garlicky white bean soup. Young, tender greens can work in salads. One friend mentioned wrapping lightly blanched chard leaves around a savory mix of bulgur wheat, crumbled feta, diced tomatoes and seasonings, then baking them. And after we picked up a handful of mustard greens at a farmers market, we stirred them into a mushroom-shallot saute to wilt, then added a splash of apple cider vinegar before serving with pork chops.

How you prepare leafy greens depends on personal taste, of course.

Maybe your mother cooked collards with ham hocks. Or maybe you have tossed escarole with pears and nuts. Or perhaps you've tucked mustard greens cooked with ginger, garlic, tamari, sesame, and chili oils into round wonton wrappers for dumplings.

With a little coaching from Laura B. Russell, you should be able to improvise with a pile of leafy greens.

Her focus is the family Brassicaceae, whose members include cabbage, kale, collards and Brussels sprouts. It is the subject of her recently released book, Brassica: Cooking the World's Healthiest Vegetables (Ten Speed Press, $23).

"You need only three things to make any brassica taste delicious - olive oil, garlic and salt," she writes, before offering recipes incorporating dozens of flavors designed to balance the character of many leafy greens.

She suggests thinking about a green's flavor profile from mild (i.e. mizuna) to stronger (collard greens, kale) to peppery (arugula, watercress) and on through pungent, such as many mustard green varieties.

Her strategies for handling the bold flavors of leafy greens include balancing them with starches (potatoes, beans, polenta, rice, pasta) or dairy (say, butter or cheese) or adding a touch of sweetness (honey, caramelized onions or balsamic vinegar). Or taking a bold stance with red pepper flakes, she suggests, or a salty element, such as bacon, capers, pancetta, soy sauce or hard cheeses such as Parmesan or pecorino.

When choosing among summer's leafy greens, look for bright color and leaves free of blemishes; avoid limp leaves. In general, younger greens will have milder, almost delicate flavors (like the baby mustard greens we nibbled) and tender leaves. Older greens will have bolder flavors, less tender (or more chewy) leaves that you may want to tear or cut into ribbons to lightly cook by blanching, sauteing, braising, or tossing in soups. Depending on the recipe, stems may need to be removed; the same is true of the center rib.

Here's a trio of leafy greens to get you started.


Mustard greens


These may come in colors ranging from green to purple. Popular in the South, throughout Asia and Africa. They're more pungent than kale and collards, writes Madison.

Young greens are good in salads and sandwiches. Consider Russell's suggestions for using more mature greens: Shredded crosswise, then wilted in a pan with caramelized Vidalia onions or used in an egg-and-potato Spanish tortilla (think frittata).



This leafy green, also called Swiss chard, may have green, yellow, red or white stems depending on the type. It can be slightly bitter and chewy, though the baby chard we tasted was delicate in texture and taste. Use in lentil soup, or add to mashed potatoes. Stems and can be diced and cooked with greens used in a soup. Red stems and veins can bleed like beets.



You'll find that escarole looks like lettuce, a loose-leafed head with thicker outer leaves and pale inner leaves. Unless, of course, you find baby leaves, curly at the edge and tender, piled loosely in a basket at a farmers market or on young plants in your garden.

Both the exterior and inner leaves have a tendency to be at least slightly bitter. The darker leaves work in bean soups and with sausages. For a salad, toss the inner escarole leaves with other greens.

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