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A baker who takes the cake

And prize money in a D.C. contest, too, for her airy confection.

Decoyise Brown's family and friends know how blessed they are. The Waldorf, Md., resident makes a mean seafood quiche and all manner of soups. But most of all, she has a baker's magic touch. Brown, 59, is the go-to source any time the people she loves need baked goods.

Brown is confident enough in her baking that she chose to make a chocolate cake she hadn't tried before for us. Buttermilk and sweetened condensed milk mixed with cocoa powder give the cake a lighter flavor and color; that's what she was after. But frosting is her ultimate weapon. It's ultra-smooth and luscious, with cream cheese, the condensed milk-cocoa powder blend, and a bit of brewed coffee. It's a process that requires patience.

"Cakes are delicate. You can't hurry them," she says.

Buttermilk Chocolate Cake

Makes 16 servings

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For the cake:

Vegetable shortening, for greasing the cake pans

3 cups cake flour, plus more for dusting the cake pans

1 cup sweetened condensed milk

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

5 extra-large eggs, at room temperature

20 tablespoons (2 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 3/4 cups sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 1/2 cups low-fat buttermilk

For the frosting:

16 ounces (2 packages) reduced-fat cream cheese, at room temperature (do not use nonfat)

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/4 cup brewed coffee, cooled

1/4 cup sweetened condensed milk

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

21/2 cups confectioners' sugar

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For the cake:

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Use a little vegetable shortening to grease two 9-inch cake pans, then use a little flour to coat them completely. Shake out any excess.

2. Combine sweetened condensed milk and cocoa powder in a measuring cup, stirring to form a smooth, thick paste. Set aside.

3. Separate the egg yolks from the egg whites, placing the whites in a separate clean mixing bowl. Set aside.

4. Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held electric mixer. Beat on low speed, then on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl, then add the milk mixture. Beat on medium speed until well combined, then add the egg yolks, one at a time, until well incorporated. Add the vanilla extract and beat to incorporate.

5. Sift the flour together with the baking powder, baking soda, and sea salt.

6. Use a flexible spatula to stir a third of the flour mixture into the butter batter, then stir in a third of the buttermilk. Repeat two more times, alternating the flour mixture and buttermilk additions, stirring until well incorporated after each addition.

7. Use clean beaters to beat the egg whites on low speed to start, then on high speed to form stiff peaks. Gradually fold the beaten egg whites into the batter to lighten the batter's consistency. Divide the batter between the cake pans; use an offset spatula to smooth the surfaces. Bake on the middle rack for 45 minutes or until the cake has pulled away from the sides of the pan and the center of the cake springs back when lightly pressed.

8. Transfer the cake pans to a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes, then remove the cake layers from the pans and place them on the rack to cool completely.

For the frosting:

1. Combine the cream cheese and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held mixer. Beat for at least 5 minutes on medium-high speed, until fluffy and well blended. Reduce the speed to low; add the vanilla extract.

2. Combine the cooled coffee, sweetened condensed milk, and cocoa powder in a measuring cup. Stir until well incorporated, then add to the cream cheese-butter mixture and beat on low speed to combine. Add the confectioners' sugar in 1/2-cup increments, beating until well incorporated after each addition. Stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.

3. Invert one of the cooled cake layers on a serving plate. Spread a generous amount of frosting on top; place the second cake layer, right side up, squarely on the frosted bottom layer. Frost the top and sides of the cake. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

4. Let the cake sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes before serving. The frosting can be made a day or two in advance. Leftover frosting can be frozen and used later on cupcakes.

Per serving: 550 calories, 10 grams protein, 71 grams carbohydrates, 49 grams sugar, 26 grams fat, 150 milligrams cholesterol, 300 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

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