Great Wine Values: Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio

It can seem counterintuitive, but it’s often those wines that are most subtle in flavor where trading up yields the most obvious rewards. Why? Minor flaws can be hard to detect in stronger-tasting wines, but milder styles are far less forgiving. Wine

drinkers are often tempted to economize on young, unoaked whites like Italian pinot grigio because so many are available for $10 or less per bottle.

But when you spend just a few dollars more, the difference in quality is quite apparent. Better fruit from better vineyards produces wine that smells better, tastes better, and feels better on the tongue. This crisp, clean, dry unoaked white is a perfect example. Its flavors of fresh green pears and honeydew melon may be understated, but it is the lasting resonance of their freshness on the palate that is the hallmark of craftsmanship and that brings us back for a second glass.

Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio, $14.99 (regularly $16.99, sale price through June 25, 2017 ) PLCB Item #4097.