Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Life, Life, Love

Drink: Ponzi Pinot Gris Willamette Valley

Ponzi Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2013. Courtesy of Ponzi Vineyards
Ponzi Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2013. Courtesy of Ponzi Vineyards

White wine lovers looking for a change-up from the same old chardonnay or pinot grigio have another fine option to consider: pinot gris.

Wait - isn't pinot gris just the French name for pinot grigio?


But the gris style perfected in Alsace is distinct from Italian grigio - more lush, less tart, with richer texture.

I've long been a fan of this mostly niche style. It's suddenly fashionable, though, and I've tasted great gris from New Zealand (Kim Crawford Small Parcels), California (an opulent Los Carneros from longtime producer Robert Sinskey).

But Oregon is really the New World home for this rising style, and the current 2013 vintage from Wilamette pioneer Ponzi is a great example of what's possible at less than $20.

First there is orchard fruit on the nose - pear and dried apricot - wrapped in the golden glycerin texture that comes from the old vines.

And then the vineyard's stony soils kick in, minerally with ginger spice, with a hint of almond.

So good.

Is it goodbye, grigio?

–Craig LaBan

Ponzi Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2013, $17.99 (code 37569).

More coverage
  • Philly chef comes clean about his drug addiction
  • Crow & the Pitcher: Going beyond the ampersand
  • Lifting a local glass
  • Inquirer Restaurant Critic
    We encourage respectful comments but reserve the right to delete anything that doesn't contribute to an engaging dialogue.
    Help us moderate this thread by flagging comments that violate our guidelines.

    Comment policy: comments are intended to be civil, friendly conversations. Please treat other participants with respect and in a way that you would want to be treated. You are responsible for what you say. And please, stay on topic. If you see an objectionable post, please report it to us using the "Report Abuse" option.

    Please note that comments are monitored by staff. We reserve the right at all times to remove any information or materials that are unlawful, threatening, abusive, libelous, defamatory, obscene, vulgar, pornographic, profane, indecent or otherwise objectionable. Personal attacks, especially on other participants, are not permitted. We reserve the right to permanently block any user who violates these terms and conditions.

    Additionally comments that are long, have multiple paragraph breaks, include code, or include hyperlinks may not be posted.

    Read 0 comments
    comments powered by Disqus
    Latest Videos:
    Also on
    letter icon Newsletter