What's New From the Pioneers

In a world as fast-growing as our food-truck scene, where new concepts roll in every month, the pioneers of Philadelphia's new-wave mobile eats can already seem like old-timers despite being just a year or two old.

Nevertheless, many are cooking their best food to date. A quick-fired pizza topped with a seasonal riff of marinated asparagus, spring onions, and earthy St. Nectaire cheese reaffirmed Pitruco's place in Philly's pizza pantheon. Joining it, Nomad's pizza truck still makes one of the most perfect margheritas around.

Alan Krawitz's Say Cheese Philadelphia has taken a noticeable step up, putting a little less emphasis on double-decker grilled-cheese girth in favor of artisanal ingredients like the hand-pulled mozzarella and house-cured pancetta on his Campania. The irrepressible Vernalicious recently gave Greek soul food its due with a flavorful, tender lamb souvlaki.

At Yumtown USA, meanwhile, Andrew Tantisunthorn and Lanie Belmont continue to feed hungry Temple University students (and Clark Park faithful) a genuine taste of thoughtful, home-cooked sophistication that simply didn't emerge from food-truck windows a few years ago.

Want proof? Try the recipe below for Tantisunthorn's Moroccan tagine-inspired beef and chickpea stew. Enriched with prunes and exotic cinnamon-cumin spice, this hearty meal is served with the wholesome touch of quinoa salad and parsley for an elegant, fresh green crunch.

Makes 6 servings

2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 tablespoon cumin

1 tablespoon coriander

2 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon cinnamon

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 large yellow onion, diced

2 carrots, large dice

1 12-ounce can diced tomatoes

12 ounces vegetable stock or water

1/4 pound prunes (8-10), coarsely chopped

1 16-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1/4 cup cilantro, chopped

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped

1. In a mixing bowl, coat the beef with spices.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat in a 12-quart pot. Add 1/3 third of the beef, in a single layer, and stir frequently until the meat is well browned. Do this, one batch at a time, to the rest of the meat.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in the same pot and add onions and carrots, cooking until soft.

4. Return the beef to the pot, and cover with tomatoes and stock (or water.) Bring to a simmer, and add the prunes, chickpeas, 2 tablespoons of the cilantro, and parsley.

5. Bring back to a simmer, cover the pot, and allow to cook, stirring occasionally, for 40 minutes.

6. Serve with the remaining cilantro.

Note: The beef and chickpea stew is inspired by a Moroccan tagine. We love integrating fresh and dried fruits into our dishes, and this example, made with prunes, is complex yet comforting; best served with rice or quinoa, or with toasted bread or pita.

Per serving (made with vegetable stock): 533 calories, 52 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 11 grams sugar, 20 grams fat, 135 milligrams cholesterol, 383 milligrams sodium, 7 grams dietary fiber.