Craig LaBan's favorite Cobb salad in Philadelphia

I tend to think of Bud & Marilyn's for its no-holds-barred retro comforts, from the deep-fried cheese curds to buttered buns filled with lobster or spicy fried chicken to its fontina-stuffed meat loaf.

But there's also a surprisingly veg-forward side to chef Marcie Turney's menu, even though I wouldn't go so far as to call it "light."

But it's especially evident at lunch, which features one stroke of creative brilliance (a Reuben with smoked beets in lieu of beef), as well as a skillful update of an all-time classic: the Cobb, currently my favorite in the city.

This hearty bowl contains all the Cobb's basic elements - lettuce, chicken, bacon, blue cheese, egg, and avocado.

But what distinguishes it is that every layer is delicious in its own right, from the pride of Turney's native Wisconsin (smoky Nueske's bacon and creamy Buttermilk Blue) to an amazingly tender chicken roasted with sesame oil to shaved watermelon radishes that lend it a colorfully festive, seasonal crunch.

Even the base greens here gets some love - a white balsamic vinaigrette - that seasons the salad before it meets Thai basil Goddess dressing and becomes, well, Cobb-tastic.

- Craig LaBan
B&M Cobb salad, $14, Bud & Marilyn's, 1234 Locust St., 215-546-2220; budandmarilyns.com