Readers enjoy Neuf's family-style traditions in Italian Market

Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat.

Craig LaBan: Is anyone else bummed over the bad words about bacon, corned beef, hot dogs, and other processed meats issued by the World Health Organization, which on Tuesday warned that eating them regularly can seriously increase your risk of colon and stomach cancer? OK . . . it's not exactly a news flash that we should be moderating our intake of fatty cured meats (and red meats, too, which also got a disapproving glance from the WHO). But when such pronouncements dominate international headlines, it is hard not to take notice and reflect. If you are about to make a life change fueled by this report, what would be your last splurge? My party would definitely begin with a bag of Benton's bacon-grease popcorn over at Khyber Pass. Next course? Fill in the blanks.

Reader: I couldn't care less what the WHO says. Mangia!

C.L.: I'm sure many people feel the way you do.

Reader: As far as the most memorable meal, I recently had a birthday dinner at Helm, which was by far one of the best meals that I've had in years. The servers and chefs were so friendly and accommodating, and the food was creative and delicious!

C.L.: So glad you enjoyed it, one of my favorites from the year so far, and a solid three bells. Good to hear.

Reader: On a recent Rachael Ray show, Pesto won the Italian pasta contest. I never hear of Pesto. Have you been there?

C.L.: Yes, congrats to the Varallo family of South Philly's Ristorante Pesto, who won top honors in the Little Italy Showdown on Rachael Ray with their seafood cavatelli in blush sauce. I enjoyed Ristorante Pesto when I reviewed it in 2007, and considered it a pretty good example of the post-red-gravy generation of South Philly Italian cooks. I went back a couple years ago, and it wasn't quite as consistent as I'd hoped. But certain dishes, like this winner, were still definitely tasty in an old-school way, typical of the pile-it-high abbondanza school of the cooking of that generation. It's a tasty dish - but, again, very rich. Better enjoy it before the WHO issues its report.

Reader: I loved my recent visit to Neuf in the Italian Market. I enjoyed the shakshuka - slightly spicy with warm aromatics. Great selection of family-style tagines and fantastic pastries. Like Noord, it feels homey, like you're eating at a friend's place. Also, it's great to see the Italian Market make a change, with foot traffic in the p.m. hours.

C.L.: Great. I'm looking forward to what Joncarl Lachman has to offer beyond his Dutch-inspired stylings at Noord.

Reader: A lot of two bells lately. Are you getting tougher as you mature, or is there a saturation of mediocre places these days? Anything with three or more bells on the horizon?

C.L.: There have been very few three-bellers this year to date. Just five so far. But I think it's more a reflection of the crop of new restaurants that has surfaced so far this year. A lot of good ones, but few that are truly great. Last year, I gave out more three bells than ever. I don't think I've adjusted my expectations - my standards have been pretty consistent. It just reflects my reactions to the places as they come. Hopefully, someone will bring it on before the end of 2015.