Drink: Liber Pater

They've been making wine in Southern Italy since the B.C. era, and hundreds of those ancient grape varieties have faded from modern consciousness.

But there's been a revival of many in the last few decades.

Discovering the sheer range of those less familiar wines - frappato, catarratto, greco bianco - is part of the fun of Brigantessa, which, like its Abruzzi-driven sibling Le Virtù, is bringing regional rarities to light.

One of my new faves is a gaglioppo called Liber Pater from Cantine Ippolito 1845, the oldest winery in the Cirò region of the Calabrian toe in Italy's boot. As fun to drink as it is to say, this gaglioppo, said to be the oldest grape still in production, offers lush dark blackberry and licorice spice, but also an earthy funk and minerality from the proximity to the ocean.

Not quite as inky as common nero d'avola, but still perfect with Brigantessa's grilled hanger steak.

- Craig LaBan
Cantine Ippolito Liber Pater Cirò Rosso 2012, $16 a glass, $64 a bottle, Brigantessa, 1520 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-318-7341.